Clutch Cable

A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40



Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt
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Where does it break, and what quadrant do you have in the car?

Hanksta said:

It breaks a little bit after the adjuster and I think it's a steeda aluminum one

Click to expand...

Steeda single, double or triple hook one?

I hear many cables break cause they are poorly made. Try the FRPP one or MM one, they're better IMO. Which adjustable one did you have before?

Yes which adjustable cable did you have? You did not state you had a firewall adjuster correct?

If the cable is breaking by the quadrant it's because the geometry of the quadrant is wrong. I'm guessing it's a "quick release" quadrant?

Geometry sounds right, you may need to slide the quadrant left or right on the bracket rod.

Notice in my pic above there is room for way left or way right.

I know there is a spring located on the left side of the stock quadrant which pushes everything to the right. But there is a slight bushing there too. So I would just make sure its not way left, some people put washers on the left side but I have seen plenty without them also. Mine doesn't have them either as the pic shows. I also left the rubber band incase it ever started to stretch. The rubber band would continue to pull down on it to keep it below the forks.

The problem with the quick release quadrant is the cable can't make a straight shot at it from the firewall. It's forced to bend in a way it was never intended to bend, every time the pedal is pushed, so the cable wears and breaks.

i had a bbk one and i had to reem the hole bigger because it rubbed....made clutch a lot easier to push also..it was binding and i broke 2 cables before i figured it out...