Clutch, flywheel question T5 swap

[GNGREN]

I am about to get this underway. I think I have gotten all of the misc. parts put together except for the possible driveshaft length issue that I won't be sure about till complete.
I was looking through all of the parts I received when I bought everything for the swap and what I bought that I knew I would need. I did not see any dowel pins for the clutch alignment. The flywheel is a 28oz version listed for fitting 86-95 mustang 302's. I will need dowels for alignment of the clutch correct? I mean the clutch doesn't have any kind of shouldered bolts for it to mount it. I ordered these #M6397A302 from CJPonyParts, it's a bolt and dowel kit. It should be what I need wouldn't ya think?

Also here is what I have as parts so far, I think I finally have all that I need so that when I start pulling her apart hopefully I don't have any problems, well except fo the possible driveshaft length, but that won't be sure about until it is in and I can get a hard meassurement.
T5,
mid plate,
cross member,
Mustang Steve cable kit,
clutch pedal & brake pedal,
Flywheel, clutch disk,
pressure plate,
new ARP flywheel bolts,
speedo-gear,
clutch fork cover,
Pilot bearing,
custom headers for use with the cable,
bung plugs to close off O2 bungs in collectors,
2.5" offset tubing incase needed to redo exhaust,
clutch bolts and dowel kit.
I also got a remote mount shiffter that I don't plan on using so I am finishing fabbing up a stock style shiffter lever to mount to the Tri-ax shiffter base on the T5. This is the style of the shifter without the printing on it:

View attachment 265842

I think this is everything i need. Am I missing anything?
I will probebly try and sell the remote shiffter and a set of ceramic coated Patriot clippster headers(Never installed the headers) after I get the T5 in. Depending on if I like the fit of the other headers and if my shiffter comes out looking OK.

 

[Calponycarsmike]

You can buy a ready made shifter for the T5 chromed and with the stock style of the classic cars, even a 5 speed knob that looks like the original black 4 speed knob. CJ Pony Parts in PA has them.

 

[GNGREN]

Yea but they are over $100... I can make it for WAY less than that.

 

[63bird390]

t-5 swap

on your flywheel i had the same one 28 oz imbalance. i used it without the dowel pins and had no problems even dumping the clutch at 5000 rpm. as for the shifter i have a pro 5.0 with a home made handle. the handle i made comes back about 8" it is from a 70's ford truck with a floor shift 8 bucks at the junk yard all i did was cut and bend it to the shape i wanted. i will try to post a pic.

 

[ForceFed70]

You don't need the dowels, but you will need a clutch alignment tool (or a spare T5 input shaft).

 

[GNGREN]

You don't need the dowels, but you will need a clutch alignment tool (or a spare T5 input shaft).

Are you sure? Everything I have found searching says you need the dowels? There are spaces for them on the flywheel and in the pressure plate. I do have an alignment tool.

 

[ForceFed70]

Are you sure? Everything I have found searching says you need the dowels? There are spaces for them on the flywheel and in the pressure plate. I do have an alignment tool.

2 years on my T5 without the dowels.

If you're worried about it, pick some up.

 

[zigmont]

I bought an old Hurst 3 speed shifter with a nice handle on eBay for 25 bucks. I sawed off the handle and bolted it to the t5 shifter. It is long and angles back so my right hand falls from the steering wheel right onto the Shifter. Perfect for me.

 

[GNGREN]

OK clearancing the cowl officially sucks. It has to be the most pain in the ass thing I have done to my car yet. And the only thing I haven’t done myself is the windshields and exterior paint. I knew it would be a chore, but wow. I knocked 3 holes in it one was with a drill bit when I was drilling the pilot hole for cable penetration. I figured I would have problems as the hats were completely gone, but I found no holes in the pan a year ago when I put the plastic hats in and it didn’t leak water afterwards when I dumped it in the cowl. I guess the borrowed time I was on is now officially up. I am thinking of blocking off the driver’s side vent assembly. At least until I get the cowl replaced. Although I guess it will cost me extra since it will need to be modified to fit over the quadrant on the Mustang Steve pedal assembly before it is put in. But enough complaining the pedal works and it all looks pretty good. I got the C4 out, and made a heck of a mess, forgot to unbolt the dipstick tube from the block and when we dropped it, it tilted and fluid just started spewing out. My old man started freakin out. He doesn’t use his 45’x35’ garage to do work in. So after all weekend all I got done is getting the pedals in the car, mounting the cable support, installing the cable, and getting all the auto stuff out. But I didn’t argue one time with dad. Although he did come out and organize all of his tools, he said he had wanted it done for a while. But I know he just wanted to make sure I put it all away and didn’t lose anything. Hopefully I can get the T5 in next weekend, after I replace the motor mounts that seem to be shot.

 

[cupcake]

Thats one reason to keep the stock linkage

 

[tx65coupe]

You can buy a ready made shifter for the T5 chromed and with the stock style of the classic cars, even a 5 speed knob that looks like the original black 4 speed knob. CJ Pony Parts in PA has them.

I have one of these. It looks sweet.

Those remote shifters look goofy and kinda ricey to me. It just seems like an odd setup to me. I know I wouldn't drill holes in my floorboard tunnel to install one.

 

[GNGREN]

Those remote shifters look goofy and kinda ricey to me. It just seems like an odd setup to me. I know I wouldn't drill holes in my floorboard tunnel to install one.

I agree, that is why I am going to try and sell it. I just need to get around to taking some pictures to post some stuff... Ceramic coated headers, remote shifter, C4 bell-block plate-inspection cover-flexplate, some high back seats, Torker 2 intake, old holley carb, and some other odds and end pieces. I need to buy a gas capable mig. The flux core one I have been using just won't go cold enough to weld the sheet metal. I even had a proffessional welder try just to see if I was setting it incorrectly. I am going to replace the cowl and paint the engine bay, before I go any farther on the T5 swap. I figure I might as well pull the engine and take care of some little loose ends with it out. Seeing as I got the tranny out already.

 

[v8only]

You don't need the dowels, but you will need a clutch alignment tool (or a spare T5 input shaft).

this couldn't be more incurrect.

The dowls center the clutch 100%.

without them there is a very high "chance" that a vibration will occur.

Never run without the dowels, because that's the time that you'll wind up yanking everything back out.