Clutch Help

Had a King Cobra, Spec 2, spec 3, spec 3+, centerforce, and now a twin-disk. All of them worked great. The spec 3 chattered a bit, but I probably didn't break it in right. Was still perfectly driveable.
 
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Any that they said above, I agree with. I put a new Ford "king cobra" clutch in my '95 years ago, and it was nice. I dont know that they call it that anymore though. The one I thing I will say with certainty is to keep your stock clutch cable, or if you replace it, replace it with another stock one. I bought an adjustable, and snapped it in a few months use. Got towed home behind my sister in law's Buick. Stock cables are known to be superior.
 
A5LiterMan knows what he's talking about. If he says the Ram Powergrip is better than a King Cobra, I'd give that one a shot. The KC worked great, though. I remember the pedal being a bit stiffer than stock, but I also hadn't figured out the cable, quadrant, firewall adjuster that worked the best yet. When I did, it significantly softened the clutch pedal. Parts store cables made me hate driving my car. Must've gone through 4 of them before I got an OEM SN95 cable that fixed the issue. They no longer sell those either, but Steeda and Maximum Motorsports cables are equivalent.
 
I run a Ram HDX in mine and love it. Almost no chatter and plenty of grip for my almost stock setup. I also have the Maximum Motorsports cable and the firewall adjuster. Peddle feels a little stiffer than the '02 GT I had when I drove it off the lot brand new.

I also had a '96 GT that I put a King Cobra in. It worked well also but like a few others said it was a little stiff.
 
Staying frugal, I would do the Ram HDX... maybe power grip if slicks and 5k launches are in your future.
Having said that... the McLeod RST twin is a beautiful thing, very light pedal and a tone of modulation... but... $$$.
My Dads car has a Centerforce in it, the pedal is not bad and it is friendly on the street... just not a fan of counter weights.
I had a Hays 650... pedal was nice but it was grabby and would chatter if just driving normal... it wanted a level of aggression on take up, so... was fine at the time for $250 but they want over $600 fro them these days... no thanks... I would not recommend... for another $100 you could have a lighter pedal and butter smooth with the McLeod.
 
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One thing to keep in mind when going to a twin disk system is that an aluminum flywheel is highly advised. The lighter flywheel helps to offset the extra weight of the added clutch disks and reduces the impact on the transmission, which helps to keep it alive.

I had a really bad experience with McLeod's original street twin and their customer service, but ultimately they did resolve it after a lot of ass-pain dealing with them. The original street twin has a light to moderate pedal, a smooth grab, and can hold more power than even the RXT. It's also one of the priciest on the market, but the feel once its right is awesome. It's maximum shift speed is only around or a little less than 7k RPM. I understand that the RST and RXT twins are better at dealing with higher revs. I would not recommend these clutches based on your needs. While nice, I wouldn't encourage you to go for a twin-disk, because based on your power level and transmission, it's far too much money and way overkill.
 
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^^good points/advice...
mine shifts like butter at 7500, but, isn't a stock T5... and some time was spend setting it all up...
and I needed much modulation due to a rather aggressive cam that does not like life below 2k rpms.
unique situation that does not apply to most.
need to remember that more often before tossing out advice.
If it counts, I had an HDX ready to go before I went McLeod...
And, the Centerforce counter weights thing, they have been on the market for a million years... it's just me that isn't sold on them... I do understand counter weights in a pure race application tho.