Clutch linkage help

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 2, 2011

#1

• Apr 2, 2011

• #1

I'm having some binding issues with my mechanical clutch linkage and hope someone can suggest some possible causes/solutions.

I have a '70 fastback with a 289 and T-5 trans. When I installed the 5 spd I used a late model T-5 bellhousing with a fulcum adapter and the original throw out lever with mechanical linkage. It worked fine for about 6 months then I started getting an occasional binding about midway through the pedal depression. I noticed some lateral movement between the z-bar and the engine side pivot and decided to upgrade to a muscle roller z-bar set up but I'm still having some issues.

I made a number of adjustments to the z-bar and throw out linkage to where it seems everything should be working fine. Without being connected to the throw out lever the linkage moves freely. I'm wondering if there could be enough up and down movement of the throw out lever that it's catching on the fulcrum adapter. I would imagine that once everything is connected there shouldn't be any such movement in the lever but maybe the fulcrum could be adjusted to be better aligned with the lever angle? Any insight would be extremely helpful and appreciated!

 

horseballz

10 Year Member

Sep 30, 2009

824

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49

Las Vegas, NV

Apr 2, 2011

#2

• Apr 2, 2011

• #2

When/before you installed the T5, did you replace the aluminum front bearing retainer with a steel one? This is the collar/tube that the throwout bearing slides forward/rearward on. The aluminum ones are notorious for getting concentric grooves worn into them causing the bearing to bind and or catch.
Just My $.02,
Gene

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 2, 2011

#3

• Apr 2, 2011

• #3

I replace the bearing but not sure of the retainer.

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

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Southeastern Pennsylvania

Apr 2, 2011

#4

• Apr 2, 2011

• #4

Uh-oh. You'd remember doing that.

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 2, 2011

#5

• Apr 2, 2011

• #5

I see what you are talking about and no, I did not replace that. I'm going to see if I can get a good look at how the throw out moves and if I can tell where it's catching tomorrow afternoon. I'll report what I see. Hopefully it's not the retainer.

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

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Southeastern Pennsylvania

Apr 3, 2011

#6

• Apr 3, 2011

• #6

bdepedro said:

Hopefully it's not the retainer.

Click to expand...

I'm hoping it is the retainer. Since the one you have is almost certainly aluminum, and the steel replacement is about $40, and it takes 2-3 hours to install, I'd say this part takes less time and way less money than you have already spent.

 

P

Pony66

New Member

Jul 23, 2010

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0

Apr 3, 2011

#7

• Apr 3, 2011

• #7

Of course you have to pull the transmission to install the bearing retainer. Once out, it takes maybe 5 minutes to install.
Wouldnt you know my clutch started to bind and catch right as I was stopping for some kids in a crosswalk. I coulndt press the clutch so I just turned the car off and stopped it with my gears. It was pretty scarey.
I had the same problem and I did install the steel retainer. Thing is I didnt put any grease on it.
So I used a toothbrush to apply grease to the bearing retainer and inside of the throwout bearing. I didnt use very much. You can poke the toothbrush through the hole in the bell along side the fork.
Dont get any grease on the foward part of the throwout bearing as it spins and grease will go everywhere and all over your clutch.
This worked great for me.

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 3, 2011

#8

• Apr 3, 2011

• #8

Thanks for the info guys. I'm still not able to determine exactly what is going on but only had a short time to look today and wouldn't you know it, it was working smoothly so I took it out for another test and after a while it started binding again. I can see the throw out lever as it rides on the fulcrum and if it's catching on that I should be able to see. I may even be able to see the trans shaft from there also to see how the bearing is riding on it. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again for all the insight!

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 4, 2011

#9

• Apr 4, 2011

• #9

Went to check out the clutch again today and had the same experience as yesterday except it stayed good for a little longer. It's starting to sound like you guys are right about the bearing retainer because I can't think of what else would cause this change.

Just for kicks I'll see if it does it again tomorrow.

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 6, 2011

#10

• Apr 6, 2011

• #10

I can't see what's going on here so I'm taking it in to "my guy" who does the things to my stang that I can't or won't do. It might not be the bearing retainer as I learned that my T-5Z came with a steal retainer but we'll see. I'll let you know what he finds. Hopefully something easy?

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 8, 2011

#11

• Apr 8, 2011

• #11

I'm an idiot! Or at least I hope so! Picked up the Stang from the shop today. When he scoped inside the bellhousing, he said the input shaft was "shiny" where the throwout bearing moves across it so he suspected it was never lubed and put some anti-seize on it. It feels better than it ever has now but I can't believe I wouldn't have put lube on it. He said that everything looked ok other than that so we'll see how it feels as time goes on to determine if that's all it was or if there is any damage that's been done. If that was it then I'm glad it's that simple but mad at myself for missing it in the first place.

 

P

Pony66

New Member

Jul 23, 2010

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0

Apr 10, 2011

#12

• Apr 10, 2011

• #12

bdepedro said:

I'm an idiot! Or at least I hope so! Picked up the Stang from the shop today. When he scoped inside the bellhousing, he said the input shaft was "shiny" where the throwout bearing moves across it so he suspected it was never lubed and put some anti-seize on it. It feels better than it ever has now but I can't believe I wouldn't have put lube on it. He said that everything looked ok other than that so we'll see how it feels as time goes on to determine if that's all it was or if there is any damage that's been done. If that was it then I'm glad it's that simple but mad at myself for missing it in the first place.

Click to expand...

Im glad it was simple. Sounds like the same problem and fix I experienced. Im sure you will have the same great results.

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 12, 2011

#13

• Apr 12, 2011

• #13

Went on a cruise with my local club to Ocracoke Island (about 3 hrs driving time one way) and it worked fine the whole time.

My shop said they used "anti-seize" on it but a guy in my club, who is a retired Ford engineer, said to use nothing but "FORD" wheel bearing grease as it uses both graphite and some other super slippery compound that I can't remember. Anybody concur with this?

Next stop, UCA drop, new strut rod bushings, sub-frame connectors and an alignment!

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

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Southeastern Pennsylvania

Apr 12, 2011

#14

• Apr 12, 2011

• #14

Use neoprene, not urethane.

 

bdepedro

Member

Nov 6, 2006

362

2

19

Outer Banks, NC

Apr 12, 2011

#15

• Apr 12, 2011

• #15

2+2GT said:

Use neoprene, not urethane.

Click to expand...

Do you mean for the strut rod bushings? I already bought some and think they are urethane. Why not urethane?