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Clutch Pedal Vibration!

  • Thread starter Thread starter smkshw
  • Start date Start date Jul 12, 2014
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smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Jul 12, 2014
#1
  • Jul 12, 2014
  • #1
my clutch pedal vibrates while driving,i can actualy feel it through the floor boards and gas pedal also,its slight but its there,also it gets worse with higher revs,if i rest my foot on the clutch pedal just enough it goes away?..new act clutch and pressure plate,throw out bearing,clutch cable,and tko 600,to me it feels like the throw out bearing or clutch fork is rattling?,clutch works and seems fine otherwise?,i just noticed it a few days ago,has about 1200k on new tranny and clutch.

if anyone has experience with this give me some input,im a little worried that the tranny may have to come out!

thanks
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
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29
Jul 12, 2014
#2
  • Jul 12, 2014
  • #2
Try adjusting the cable ..tightening it should stop the rattle and vibration.
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
1,095
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94
Jul 12, 2014
#3
  • Jul 12, 2014
  • #3
jka said:
Try adjusting the cable ..tightening it should stop the rattle and vibration.
Click to expand...
i tightened the cable,made it have no slack and it was grabbing almost all the way at the top,still there!,i can actually hear and feel it also??....what do you guys thing i have going on here???
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
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Jul 12, 2014
#4
  • Jul 12, 2014
  • #4
I had a similar issue when the car was stock. Was missing a pressure plate bolt and it was sitting uneven causing this issue. After i did the clutch and new flywheel it was gone. Maybe the throw out bearing is no good? What cable set up you running? I perfer max motorsports over everything
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Jul 12, 2014
#5
  • Jul 12, 2014
  • #5
TOOLOW91 said:
I had a similar issue when the car was stock. Was missing a pressure plate bolt and it was sitting uneven causing this issue. After i did the clutch and new flywheel it was gone. Maybe the throw out bearing is no good? What cable set up you running? I perfer max motorsports over everything
Click to expand...

ya it has to be the throw out bearing makin the noise,or the clutch fork,but its new?,and i torqued the pressure plate to spec?,it completley goes away when i put a little pressure on the pedal?,but it is actualy loud if i didnt have my exshaust,has me a little worried?,i have a bbk adjustable,first time i had this issue.
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
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Jul 12, 2014
#6
  • Jul 12, 2014
  • #6
Take off the inspection cover and drive without it and see if you can still hear the sound..if there is no more noise. The clutch fork is hitting the inspection cover..i had this problem before. Just loosen the cable enough so you can move the fork up a little and then tighten the cable back up.
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Jul 13, 2014
#7
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #7
jka said:
Take off the inspection cover and drive without it and see if you can still hear the sound..if there is no more noise. The clutch fork is hitting the inspection cover..i had this problem before. Just loosen the cable enough so you can move the fork up a little and then tighten the cable back up.
Click to expand...
took it off,still there!,i realy hope i dont have to take the tranny out again!
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
1,095
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Jul 13, 2014
#8
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #8
ok,so i took cover off,ran it,and i c the clutch fork bouncing around like crazy?,so i tightened the cable until it stopped visibly shaking,made it much better,its still vibrating and making a slight noise though?,could i have a pressure plate or throw out bearing issue?,bunk new parts maybe?....im at a loss here boys?
 

Spaz

Member
Jan 5, 2013
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Pennsylvania
Jul 13, 2014
#9
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #9
Are you sure the fork was put on the pivot stud properly? I had a similar problem. Bad clutch pedal/fork vibration. Turns out the y-shaped clip that fits on the clutch fork pivot stud was broken. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7548A/84-04-Mustang-Clutch-Throwout-Release-Bearing shows how it goes together. If the fork isn't on the pivot stud correctly or the TO bearing isn't under the spring the right way you will have problems. My car shifted great in all gears at all rpms, it just made that wicked rattling noise and vibration.
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
1,095
235
94
Jul 13, 2014
#10
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #10
Spaz said:
Are you sure the fork was put on the pivot stud properly? I had a similar problem. Bad clutch pedal/fork vibration. Turns out the y-shaped clip that fits on the clutch fork pivot stud was broken. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7548A/84-04-Mustang-Clutch-Throwout-Release-Bearing shows how it goes together. If the fork isn't on the pivot stud correctly or the TO bearing isn't under the spring the right way you will have problems. My car shifted great in all gears at all rpms, it just made that wicked rattling noise and vibration.
Click to expand...
when i was under there i loosened the cable off completely and checked the arm and it "seemed" fine,while running once it touches the flywheel then the vibration starts,i did it by hand and you can feel it,either way i think i have to take the tranny out to find out,not happy if i have too.
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
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Jul 13, 2014
#11
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #11
Well the only other thing i think it could be is the clutch fork pivot ball is adjusted/tighten too far in. This would cause the clutch fork and throw out bearing to rattle because there's not enough tension. If you adjust the pivot stud out ..when you tighten the cable ..it would move the throw out bearing /fork forward and it put the right amount of tension on everything and the noise would stop plus you would not have to tighten the cable so tight.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
8,483
8,687
234
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Jul 13, 2014
#12
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #12
jka said:
Well the only other thing i think it could be is the clutch fork pivot ball is adjusted/tighten too far in. This would cause the clutch fork and throw out bearing to rattle because there's not enough tension. If you adjust the pivot stud out ..when you tighten the cable ..it would move the throw out bearing /fork forward and it put the right amount of tension on everything and the noise would stop plus you would not have to tighten the cable so tight.
Click to expand...
iirc the stock pivot isn't adjustable it just goes until it's tight
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
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Jul 13, 2014
#13
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #13
I was thinking he had an adjustable pivot stud since he's has a tko 600 ..but maybe if he has the stock one ..he may need an adjustable one.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
8,483
8,687
234
S.I.NY
Jul 13, 2014
#14
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #14
jka said:
I was thinking he had an adjustable pivot stud since he's has a tko 600 ..but maybe if he has the stock one ..he may need an adjustable one.
Click to expand...
hmmmmm I didn't take that into account
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
1,095
235
94
Jul 13, 2014
#15
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #15
jka said:
I was thinking he had an adjustable pivot stud since he's has a tko 600 ..but maybe if he has the stock one ..he may need an adjustable one.
Click to expand...
no,it just screwed in...good thought though thanks,when i adjust it to where i like it,it has a little free play on the pedal,and grabs just before the middle,pedal feel is good for a heavy duty clutch,but i have to tighten it up to where it grabs almost at the top with no free play and it helps but still there....i have no answer exept change everything?!!,maybe flywheel?,could that be a possible cause also?
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
23
29
Jul 13, 2014
#16
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #16
When switching to a tko 600 you will an adjustable pivot stud. The stud is longer than stock and it will keep the fork from moving down and rattling and when adjusted correctly it will keep the right amount of tension on the bearing. I don't think it's your clutch.. but if you are using the stock replacement fork then you will need an adjustable pivot ball/stud.
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
1,095
235
94
Jul 13, 2014
#17
  • Jul 13, 2014
  • #17
jka said:
When switching to a tko 600 you will an adjustable pivot stud. The stud is longer than stock and it will keep the fork from moving down and rattling and when adjusted correctly it will keep the right amount of tension on the bearing. I don't think it's your clutch.. but if you are using the stock replacement fork then you will need an adjustable pivot ball/stud.
Click to expand...
well i have to look into that?first i herd of it?,i just put the supplied stud on.
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
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Jul 14, 2014
#18
  • Jul 14, 2014
  • #18
You still can use the stock pivot ball stud but it will have to be loosen about an one inch to get the correct tension needed on the throwout bearing and the fork. But ether way you will have to take your trans back out to do this..but it would give you a chance to look at everything.
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
1,095
235
94
Jul 14, 2014
#19
  • Jul 14, 2014
  • #19
jka said:
You still can use the stock pivot ball stud but it will have to be loosen about an one inch to get the correct tension needed on the throwout bearing and the fork. But ether way you will have to take your trans back out to do this..but it would give you a chance to look at everything.
Click to expand...
thanks for input,man this is a bummer!,was running and working perfectly,i have a month left for insurance,i know i shouldnt but im thinking of riding out until then!?!?
 
J

jka

5 Year Member
Jan 17, 2010
339
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29
Jul 14, 2014
#20
  • Jul 14, 2014
  • #20
I forgot to ask ...do you have a firewall adjuster/cable kit or just an adjustable clutch cable?
 
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