Clutch Problem

Dave, having the point of engagement right at the top means that you will slip. That means that in order to have such short pedal travel, you have preloaded the cable a good bit.

To ensure that you are not slipping, you want the pedal to engage right off the floor (for testing purposes at least - not ideal for actual driving). You should be able to feel a hair of slack in the cable with the POE down near the floor. Slack in the cable = no preload = no slipping caused by the cable.

When you referenced loosening: loosening a FWA will make the clutch cable tighter. Tightening the FWA makes the cable looser. Could that have been a point of issue?

Good luck.

Same clutch same problem.I'm taking mine apart now to see whats up.

95strokerPSU said:

Thanks for the response

So let me get this straight, you would assume that my clutch cable is still too tight, hence why my clutch engages at the very end when I'm bringing the clutch pedal back out. So by loosening the clutch cable more, it will bring the point of clutch engagement closer to the floor?

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Yep. For someone with clutch slippage, one wants to get the point of engagement closer to the floor (so you remove excessive preload on the TOB and PP diaphram fingers, which can cause slipping).

By having the Point of engagement at the top, you have possibly preloaded the diaphram fingers, which is comparable to riding the clutch.

Now if you have an adjustable cable, you actually loosen the nut at the fork. But if you have a FWA, to 'loosen' the cable, you tighten the firewall adjuster.

FWIW, I have a HD kit and have been farting around with the adjustment (my new single hook quadrant does not allow near the fork travel that my old SVO single hook did) and I can have the clutch adjusted so it engages pretty near the top, but with no slippage. So there still might be a clutch (hard part) issue, but dialing all the preload out of the cable is the first thing to do, in case that is the only issue.

My two cents.

Good luck.