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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
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Clutch problem?

  • Thread starter Thread starter cornpoweredv6
  • Start date Start date May 15, 2011
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cornpoweredv6

New Member
Oct 3, 2010
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May 15, 2011
#1
  • May 15, 2011
  • #1
Whenever i have the clutch slightly pressed in a very loud high pitched wailing sound comes from somewhere in my car. I was recently teaching a friend how to drive a clutch and he put a little more pressure on it, but it is a newer clutch with only about 40k miles on it! It almost has to be the clutch, but i certainly would like to hear any other possibilities

ps
1999 mustang v6. all stock 5 speed. 35th anniversary edition
 
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cornpoweredv6

New Member
Oct 3, 2010
9
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0
May 15, 2011
#2
  • May 15, 2011
  • #2
i have determined that it is the throwout bearing. although a guide on replacing the TOB would be helpful, as well as costs if i do it myself vs. a transmission shop.
 
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richardv6

New Member
May 5, 2011
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WI
May 15, 2011
#3
  • May 15, 2011
  • #3
hi corn .


well if your clutch has done 40thousand miles you may wanna change the whole clutch kit while your in there ... so just you have a longer life before ripping all the tranny out ... you could just change the throw out bearing about 40 bucks for just that ...while the clutch is out you will also want to check the clutch fork for wear . i had to buy a new one from ford 44 bucks also the pivot bolt it sits on was worn also 22 bucks from ford ... ive orderd a stage 3 xtd clutch kit as im kinda broke atm . but people say spec clutches are good before i orderd the xtd clutch via e bay i got a clutch from advanceauto but returned it as the throw out bearing looked cheap and the clutch was made in china .. and that was $160 bit of info for you ...

so to get at the clutch to replace it ..
you will need jack stands and a high lifting jack get the car as high as poss . you need to remove the front exhaust from the manifolds i had to use a blowlamp to heat my nuts and bolts to free them as they were rusted solid .

then once you have them off being careful to disconnect the o2 sensors and stuff you need to drain the transmisson of its oil.
next is the prop shaft i put the car in gear and hand brake on crack the bolts off then let the brake and take it out of gear and rotate it so u can get the other two bolts out mark the prop before removing it so u can line it back up in the same place after i used whiteout for that .. remove the prop being careful not to pinch your hand in the uj hurts like hell lol ......
so you need to losen the tranny rear mount again i had to heat the plate on the end to free it off .....
so now u need to undo the four bolts holding the tranny to the bell houseing you may need some extensions with uj in there to get them ..so with that done .in side the car remove the centre console around the gear leaver and remove the stick .
back under the car u need to drop the rear mount and hold the tranny i laid with my head towards the back of the car and slid the tranny on to my knees and slowly let it down ....careful it can be akward ....
i also forgot u need to remove the clutch cable from the fork at this point in time u should be able to remove the clutchfork with the throw out bearing. but you come this far and u may as well keep goin and change the whole clutch ...

so now u need to remove the bell houseing so u can start by removing the starter motor i got the top bolt out by goin tho the front of the subframe at the front of the car with long socket bars and a uj with socket ..
remove the rest of the bell houseing bolts not forgetting the ones that bolt tho the oil pan .
once all the bolts are out u may need a small pry bar to wobble the bell houseing off its locateing pins ...mine was on tight ..becareful if u have to do that tho u really dont wana damage it at all..
so now your down to the pressure plate at this time u can check the fingers and see if there worn but as i say u came this far may as well replace it and the clutch plate ..also remove the flywheel and get it resurfaced if u can if not very least scuff it up good with some good rough sand paper .. now remove the steel back plate and check the rear main crank seal see if it has leaked im changing mine not couse it looks bad but becouse i dont want to have to redo the whole job in 5thousand miles when it decides to start leaking ... sods law it would ...so points to remember to check and change if it need it are

clutch fork
clutch pivot
rear main oil seal for the crankshaft and of course the clutch kit and tob
also remember to buy oil to refill your tranny

also if u have a oil pan leak at all is also the time to do that as in the haynes manuel it says u need to remove the fly wheel to get the oil pan off but you will also need to lift the engine to remove the oil pan by a cpl of inches ..
so anyways when u go to put it back togeather clean new clutch and clutch disc and flywheel with carb cleaner make sure its all dry and clean and put it all back togeather . also grease the pivot bolt and clutch fork in the right places .... if things go well for you and nothing rusted solid and u have the tools u have it done easy in a weekend if not it can be a pain ...

i got quoted last year to drop my tranny $350 plus parts so yes it can be alot cheaper to do it your self. if u have the time and tools ....just make sure u only have to do the job once so do it right lol.....and this is just a rough guide no doubt ive missed something but i think it pretty much covers it ...

there u go let us know how u got on ...
richard.
 
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cornpoweredv6

New Member
Oct 3, 2010
9
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0
May 17, 2011
#4
  • May 17, 2011
  • #4
Couldn't have asked for a more helpful post! Thank you so much ! ill let you know how it goes, my friends dropped plenty of tranny's so hopefully it doesnt take me all weekend
 
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