Clutch problems

Not bad...

Not bad... have a lot of extensions... starter bolts easiest to get from front, about 18 in of extension; tubular k and a's are worth getting just to get to headers and starter better! LOL

clip on trasmission for clutch fluid DO not loose the clip; metal piece, cost 80$ it looks half on, push it on MORE to pull out.


thats the only things i can think of that ive run across s197 specific.

i did not find it all that bad. i only had two problems

1. i have big hands and i had a little bit of trouble disconnecting the fwd right o2 sensor

2. that trans i real heavy. nothing like a t-5. i got a trans jack adapter. worth its weight in gold.

good luck.

It's not a bad job at all. Get a new slave/tb brg while you're at it. The hydraulic line up on the driver's side of the tranny has a little metal clip that pops out with a small flat blade screwdriver (like chad9350 said). Once you pop the clip out you can pry the line off. Make sure the line is pushed in very hard upon reassembly. You can have the clip completely installed on the line before reconnecting it to the steel tube that protrudes from the bell. Reinstalling the tranny is easiest by having the tailpiece way down low until the input shaft is through the pressure plate diaphram, then lift it up level to get it the rest of the way in.

The shifter has a linkage rod that must be removed from the transmission shift spool. Don't overtighten the nut that retains the rod to the spool. Put a little loctite on it and snug it up. The shifter also has a remote mounted beam that attaches to the rear side of the tranny with one bolt. Make sure that bolt is cranked good and tight upon reassembly.

To bleed the hydraulic system make sure the brake master cylinder reservoir is up to level, jack up the driver's side of the car about 10'' and very slowly pump the clutch pedal. It should take you about 5 seconds to complete one stroke down or up. Hang in there for about 10 minutes. It will bleed out right through the reservoir, just be patient. All of the air will come up through the clutch master and bubble out the top of the reservoir. Once the pedal starts to stiffen up you can increase the pumping speed a little, but it should still take about 2-3 seconds to complete one stroke down or up. Don't go too fast. You don't want to stir up the fluid and have the air flying through the system.

Push the clip in!

Push the clip in! LOL it pops right out... you can pop it off.... but, if you loose it (like i did) 80$ for the whole part from Ford just to get the f'n clip!

Itll be a fun weekend

oh9mustang said:

Thanks for your help, all.
I'm not sure what a few things you were talking about are, but I guess I will find out.
Like , "slave/tb brg" and "tubular k and a's"

This weekend will be fun????

Ron

Click to expand...

The slave/brg is your throwout bearing which is attached to the clutch slave cylinder. It comes as one part.

check your pm's oh9mustang

take your time, you'll be fine.....

how's your clutch coming along, Hammer?

hey how you doing stangzilla

the clutch project is going well.....i just mounted
up the flywheel, clutch disks and pressure plate
this morning....

tomorrow i'll mount up the transmission and call
that project complete.

what's new with you?


btw, i just realized who you are! lol

stangzilla100 said:

how's your clutch coming along, Hammer?

Click to expand...

you are very welcome Ron

everything i learned, was from people on the
forums.....it's a great community and when
we share our experiences, it makes projects
like this much more manageable

rest up and when you feel well enough to tackle
the project, we'll be here if you need us....

oh9mustang said:

Hammer
Thans for the PM and pics.
I'm afraid I wont be doing the clutch for a week or so, I had Hernia surgery yesterday. 750lb leg press, Wont be doing that anymore either.

Ron

Click to expand...

hammeron said:

hey how you doing stangzilla

the clutch project is going well.....i just mounted
up the flywheel, clutch disks and pressure plate
this morning....

tomorrow i'll mount up the transmission and call
that project complete.

what's new with you?


btw, i just realized who you are! lol

Click to expand...

i knew you would figure it out. i guess the whipple and loud exhaust thing gave it away. i bet if it said boomtubes that would be a dead give away. but i'm planning on doing my clutch, flywheel and DS too as soon as i get out of the empty wallet crew. lol.

i guess it was the word whipple and
the picture that triggered my memory!

anyhoo good to see ya and hopefully
oh9mustang will forgive us for saying
"hey" in the thread....

let me know when you start that next round of
mods, i want to watch it all unfold....


ok no more thread jacking.....see you out
on the road....

stangzilla100 said:

i knew you would figure it out. i guess the whipple and loud exhaust thing gave it away.

Click to expand...

stangzilla100 said:

i knew you would figure it out. i guess the whipple and loud exhaust thing gave it away. i bet if it said boomtubes that would be a dead give away. but i'm planning on doing my clutch, flywheel and DS too as soon as i get out of the empty wallet crew. lol.

Click to expand...

I just installed a new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and slave cylinder in my 2007 GT. It has been in for a whopping 24 hours so I can't truely evaluate the final outcome being it isn't broke in yet. I went with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, Mc Leod RST, and a new slave cylinder from Rock Auto. The engagement is closer to the top of the pedal travel now but is as easy as stock to push.

The main reason for my post is to let you know that, unless there is something I don't know, you WILL have to remove the Whipple to get the tranny out. I read about this on another site but thought I would try it without removing the S/C. I was able to remove all of the fasteners but I could only move the tranny back about 1/2 inch before the bellhousing hit the tunnel. The engine has to tilt down in the rear substantially in order for the bellhousing to clear the tunnel. The S/C is so close to the firewall, it limits the amount of engine tilt.

Removing the S/C is pretty easy as long as the car is on the ground but being I had it on jack stands I just worked off of a step stool to get it removed (I won't make that mistake again). To avoid a big mess if your Whipple is intercooled, you will have to remove some/most of the coolant from the intercooler. I did this by siphoning out most of the coolant from the I/C tank. Then removed the short return hose from the S/C to the tank. Next I SLOWLY pumped LOW PRESSURE air into the outlet port of the I/C which pushed the trapped coolant inside of the I/C back into the tank. Note: you will have to siphon out the tank at least one more time to get all of the coolant out of the I/C. Then I remove the other hose to the I/C and capped off the coolant ports on the S/C. By doing this I was able to remove the S/C from the car without spilling a drop of coolant. It sounds a lot harder than it is and only took about 45 min to have the S/C off. Once it was removed, the engine tilted down and waaalaaa, the tranny came right out.

I did the complete clutch replacement in my garage on jack stands but just one word of advice if you're going to attemt it without a lift, be sure to raise the car way up. With my car as high as I could get it, I still couldn't get the tranny out from under the car while on the tranny jack.

Good luck with your project.