Clutch replace, what else?, tips? hints? suggest?

[Hobbs4ut]

95 GT Conv 5spd with 101k mi, just bought it, needs it's first clutch, the car is totally stock.

What all should I do while I'm at it? I mean if I'm there and I want to start building the car right, what all should I do? I plan on heads and intakes down the road, ~300hp at some point.

Tips for/while replacing clutch?

Suggestions?

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

get a king cobra ford racing clutch for a stock setup, with more power, you'll need a better clutch, more $ though. There isnt really anything down there that i reccomend except maby for a clutch qudrant.

 

[Hobbs4ut]

okay.......what's this "clutch quadrant Kit"? What's it do for me and how much?

 

[94CobraPace]

While the tranny is out, change the fluid, pilot bearing & rear main seal. I found it is easier to remove the tranny from the bell housing 1st, then remove the bell housing from the motor. Get the fly wheel resurfaced. The intermediate pipe with cats has to be removed, good time to upgrade to hi flow cats. Shifter has to be removed, another good time to upgrade shifters, Pro 5.0 are good. King Cobra clutches are good, mine has a higher pedal effort. Specs clutches are very good.

 

[rudeone707]

When i first bought my car the clutch was also gone. I have the Spec stage II no complaints. But i would suggest going with a ford factory TOB. And like 94 cobra said your stock H will be off anyways so you could dhange that to an Off road pipe, or do that and headers at the same time.

 

[wytstang]

okay.......what's this "clutch quadrant Kit"? What's it do for me and how much?

This adds a Firewall clutch Adjuster; A adustable clutch cable; And a Double clutch quadrant. basiclly it lets you adjust everything to your liking.

 

[HoofnIt]

But i would suggest going with a ford factory TOB.

What is wrong with the one SPEC supplies?

 

[95BLBLVert]

Absolutely nothing! The problem SPEC had with TOBs was that they were from Ford. They now use Timken and have no problems.

 

[Dan94GT]

king cobra now, then later on if you need more just get a Mc cleod disk.

What the others said. Plus a steel bearing retainer.

Autozone sells the Timken stuff, good quality.

 

[Numbles]

How is pedal effort between these clutches? Liek the centerforce stage I and II and the King cobra?

 

[Hobbs4ut]

Thanks to all! I've really been looking into this since I posted this and I have learned a lot.
I ordered a FMS King Cobra clutch kit and FMS Quadrant kit (I like Ford Racing stuff)
I planned on fluid change and thought I would check pilot bearing - I'll probably go ahead and get one.
A new flywheel is $50 or $59, I forget, at Autozone so I was toying with the idea of new instead of resurface - I have no idea how much a resurface is.
I will look into "steel retainer".

I plan on FMS Side exhaust kit before I get the needed paint job so I'm afraid to go to an off-road exhaust pipe for fear of it being too loud. I made my first '95 GT vert too loud opening up the exhaust too much and I don't want to make that mistake again. I'm not a racer, I just like turning wrenches and feeling a little power that I added and I love the classic 5.0!

How about changing u-joints? Any need to do that on these stangs?

 

[mo_dingo]

Resurface = $30 from a local machine shop.

I haven't heard anything about the autozone flywheels. I don't forsee any problem using them. Maybe someone here has purchased one and would have some input. But if they are good, it's worth it. Resurfacing the flywheel means the clutch will last 50k-80k miles. Brand new flywheel w/ brand new clutch probably will make the clutch disc last a little longer. If you have the money to spend, then I would do it.

Definately do the pilot bearing. It runs $10 dollars. You can rent a slide hammer & bearing puller from autozone. You get your money back when you return it.

It's an extremely good idea to replace the rear main seal while you have the flywheel off. But be wary. Many times when people replace the rear main seal, they create a leak when installing it. You have to be very careful. Search around the 5.0L forums for the correct install procedure. It isn't anything crazy, but you need to be careful, that is all.
Scott

 

[mo_dingo]

I plan on FMS Side exhaust kit before I get the needed paint job so I'm afraid to go to an off-road exhaust pipe for fear of it being too loud. I made my first '95 GT vert too loud opening up the exhaust too much and I don't want to make that mistake again. I'm not a racer, I just like turning wrenches and feeling a little power that I added and I love the classic 5.0!

How about changing u-joints? Any need to do that on these stangs?

You could get a new h-pipe w/ high flow cats. That would keep it quiet with the exception of WOT. But I think the mufflers have something to do with it also. With my magnaflow c/b, and the bassani o/r x-pipe, it only gets really loud when you step on it at higher rpm's.

Well, you will have to remove the driveshaft to do the clutch install, so if you want to do u-joints you can. But if you need the car back on the road quickly, I wouldn't. Save it for another weekend. It can be a job if you don't have the right tools.

I had a hydraulic press when I was doing my brothers bronco. That made the job relatively easy. If you only have a vice, it will take longer.

Leave the stock u-joints in for now. After you are done w/ the clutch and time permits, then do the u-joints. Only jack up the rear of the car. That way the transmission fluid stays in the transmission!
Scott

 

[Numbles]

Good choicewith the clutch from FMS. I just got my King cobra and it only took one day to break it in. As well as the gears. I put close to 50 miles before the clutch acted likt the stock one. And ever since Ive put close to 200 hundred on both. The clutch grabs exelently. Stand stills are way easier than before LOL.