CODE 22 ENGINE LIGHT ON HELP

Fix the code 22 and the check engine light should go off. Code 22 puts the computer in limp mode, which reduces performance & economy.

Code 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture by sensing changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it. There a very few DVM with a price tag under $40 that will measure frequency, but there are some out there.

The MAP/BARO sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the upper manifold.

Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.

If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer

Some basic checks you can make to be sure that the sensor is getting power & ground:
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.
Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohm. Next check the resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery cable. It should be less than 1.5 ohm.

The following power on check requires you to turn the ignition switch to the Run position.
Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or EGR sensors. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.

Try taking the measurements with the MAP connecter disconnected from the sensor. Sometimes probing them from the rear doesn't make good contact. Inspect the connector contacts and wiring - look for loose, corroded or damaged pins and wiring.

Recheck your reading using the battery negative terminal for ground. . If you still don't get the 5 volts=/-.5 vol, the wire is broken inside the harness.

ramair4ta said:

i was going to recheck it again to be sure. i disconnected and rechecked. everything has 5 volts. 4.96 4.99 4.99 so am i at a bad sensor?

thanks for the quick replies. its going to a show this weekend and i really didnt want the light on for the show.

Click to expand...

If all the voltages are good, the sensor is all there is left to be suspect. Try the junkyard first for a replacement unit All the reman units are just junkyard items that have passed a quick test.