Code 84 help

[89roadster]

Okay, I'm getting code 84 on KOEO test. It's telling me that it's getting a failed circuit on the EVR.

What I've done/tested:
With engine running, I ground the CPU side of the EVR and the EGR valve opens and the engine dies.
I've cleaned all connections from the CPU to the EVR and tested with multimeter for continuancy (sp?) and all works fine.
The EVR is two weeks old and seems to work without problem, any other ideas???

Thanks for any help, I'm about to get rid of this computer and I'm really not interested in purchasing a new one$$$$$

 

[89roadster]

I meant to add: is there any way of telling wether the code is stored or part of the test?

Is there a way of clearing the code without disconnecting the negative battery for 20+ minutes?

 

[jrichker]

Code 84 - EGR Vacuum Regulator - Solenoids. The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid is inop, missing vacuum, broken vacuum lines, vacuum leaks, or bad electrical wiring from the computer or no power to the solenoid.

if you used a jumper wire to put the computer into test mode, disconnect it while the codes are being displayed. That will clear them. If you have an Acton or other hand scanner, see the scanner manual.

For reference, here's the theory on how ithe EVR & EGR work together.

The EGR system has a vacuum source (line from the intake manifold) that goes to the EVR ,computer operated electronic vacuum regulator. The EGR valve and the passages in the heads and intake manifold route exhaust gas to the EGR spacer (throttle body spacer). The computer uses RPM, Load. and some other factors to tell the EVR to pass vacuum to open the EGR valve. The EGR sensor tells the computer how far the EGR valve is open. Then computer adjusts the signal sent to the EVR to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum. The computer adds spark advance to compensate for the recirculated gases and the slower rate they burn at.

The EGR shuts off at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), so it has minimal effect on performance. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping.

 

[89roadster]

I should add that on the KOER test I get 33, 44, and 94

Maybe these are somehow related (obviously if I get 84, then I get 33)???

I've cleaned the salt and pepper shakers without any change.

 

[jrichker]

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines. Check to see if you have 5” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection at cruse RPM. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valve located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


Codes 94 & 44 - Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

 

[89roadster]

Yup, checked it all...no vacuum problems, getting 12v to all valves, I'm leaning towards a bad computer