Coil pack question

I searched a lot. Found the answer I hope. Long stupid story short. I washed my engine bay! Now misfire and a horrible skip studder under load. Coil packs? Well little to my knowledge I have at least 3 maybe 4 bad. I want to put motorcraft back in the car. But was glancing at advance auto parts and they are 62.99 a piece!.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...torcraft_5970028-p?searchTerm=coil#fragment-1

Then for sh!ts and giggles I checked ebay.. I found these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-Ten-New-Copper-Wire-Ignition-Coils-USA-Made-DG508-3W7Z12029AA-FD503-/400345296031?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year:2002|Model:Mustang|Submodel:GT&hash=item5d36706c9f&vxp=mtr

Was wondering if anyone had any input on buying these TEN for 140 vs 8 for 504 plus tax.... Lol. I know dont wash engine, spend hours cleaning!. I used to wash my z28 motor all the time. Let it dry and drove out! Never had a problem... Anyways any opinions on buying electricals off ebay would be good.

Notice they have the same part number and that the ebay ones say the springs are copper... thoughts on that as well as the oem ones are aluminum arnt they?
 
A common cause for misfire after engine cleaning is water that seeps past the rubber boots and fills up the spark plug wells. There could be 2" of standing water around some of the plugs and it can take weeks to evaporate. I usually blow it out with compressed air, but a cheap turkey baster and paper towels should also do the job.
 
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A common cause for misfire after engine cleaning is water that seeps past the rubber boots and fills up the spark plug wells. There could be 2" of standing water around some of the plugs and it can take weeks to evaporate. I usually blow it out with compressed air, but a cheap turkey baster and paper towels should also do the job.

+1

Coil packs are sealed and very tough so they're in all likelihood okay. As mentioned, pull the packs and remove all the water from the plug wells.

I'd also remove the boots from the packs and clean and dry them too. Use care when doing this.

Apply a little dielectric grease to the terminals before buttoning it all up.
 
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Always check plug wells after washing the engine. The haynes manual shows how to use a meter to test coil. The misfire code will indicate the cylinder. Under misfire a code will be logged but the check engine light will not illuminate unless the misfire is severe.
 
Always check plug wells after washing the engine. The haynes manual shows how to use a meter to test coil. The misfire code will indicate the cylinder. Under misfire a code will be logged but the check engine light will not illuminate unless the misfire is severe.

Another good point. But my SES light I believe is disabled. As the initial start up the SES light never comes on. So Im guessing disabled? Also I tried the crappy way of figuring out which cylinder is misfiring by 1 at a time unplugging the harness from the coil packs. Everyone of them made the motor fall worse on its face. I also 1 at a time unplugged the harness from the injectors. Every time the car fell on its face and cried for mama. I unplugged the MAF and the car died. I dont know much about EGR but I took the vac line off the EGR and no change. All spark plug cylinders are dry, dirty but dry. I have not pulled plugs yet its going to the shop saturday. I have not plugged it up to a diagnostic test yet as I dont even know if it works with this car being a swap. The plug is there and I know you have to replace the whole harness but who knows. Guess if saturday doesnt go good its going to FORD! Please note my enthusiasm! -_-