COLD AIR INTAKE

[Jinx]

If you plan on going to bottle spray, then I would suggest metal. Just simply that if there is a pressure back-up and it ignites, then odds are a metal one will survive, while the plastic will possibly be destroyed.

Other than that it's one-half dozen or the other.

 

[Jbauer]

well of course, pieces like BBK are useless. I just don't see how the KN and JLT and other quality pieces showed an HP loss. the K&N for one is freer flowing than the paper filter, and the tubing on jLT and K&N looks to be better than factory too, because the factory tube looked like a fat lady with a triple chin struggling to breath.

Hotrodders have tried resistors in IATs and pulling headlights and relocating MAFs and filters for eons now

If i wanted a dyno sheet, i have one right here with my K&N that showed a 9HP gain i think it was on a bone stock 99 GT- both numbers were taken at very similar conditions, almost identical. Of course, people will distrust the dyno. But, i see no reason to think its a lie- since the dyno sheets they send reveals: That their MOST EXPENSIVE kit (typhoon) made less power than their CHEAPEST kit, the FIPK II. They could of easily manipulated the numbers around. although i feel a 9 HP gain is over kill, so there probably was a little error- i think 2-3HP is very likely from an FIPK II.
Although, no. I havent dyno tested it, and even my but o meter doesnt feel it either.

 

[03TrueBlue]

I bought a K&N kit off Ebay for 50 bucks installed it and I think if there is a difference its so small I cant really feel it. I will be taking it off and going back to stock with a K&N and i dont remove the silencer, I cut it way back just so its still sticking through the fender and its a bigger hole to get more air in. I might just use the K&N tube and hook it up to the stock filter. One thing I dont like about the K&N filter housing is its kind of open to under the hood air, no way it can be sealed that good.

 

[BurningRubber]

Heres my imput.

I had been driving my car, it was fully warmed up. I came home, plugged my Diablosport in. I did a little datalogging and my IAT temps. were only slightly higher than ambient tempature outside of the car.

I have a K&N FIPK and that tube never gets hot.

Chrome may look nice, but it will hold heat more, and although the air is passing through very quickly it will still heat up to a degree.

That being said, if you choose a metal intake over a plastic one, your probaly buying it for looks. Either way, you wont make/lose a significant amount of power in the first place. Its just an intake, and unless you have cracked the motor open you arent even going to take full advantage of it in the first place.


Now if we want to start a whole different debate, how about the beleif that fenderwell intakes mess with you mass air sensor, due to the bend right before them? True, false?



BTW: I actually took my heat sheild off my K&N because it was partially blocking flow from one side of the filter.

 

[Jbauer]

better to have less cold air than alot of hot air as far as the heat shield is concerned.

 

[Mustang92]

Hotrodders have tried resistors in IATs and pulling headlights and relocating MAFs and filters for eons now

Thanks for the history lesson I'm talking about people testing them and proving if those methods worked on the modular engine. Just because a mod works on one engine doesn't mean it works on every engine.

As for your dyno tests again read what I said. Take a stock GT put a K&N or other stock replacement filter or open ended filter with an adapter plate on and see what you gain. Then swap over to a full FIPK or other plastic intake tube setup with a good filter and compare the difference. That is what I'm referring to. Most if not all the gains seen by a FIPK is from the filter not the tube. Even with added mods they still didn't do much of anything until you started getting into either a power adder or did head work, bigger cubes, etc...

BTW: I actually took my heat sheild off my K&N because it was partially blocking flow from one side of the filter.

better to have less cold air than alot of hot air as far as the heat shield is concerned.

Sorry but the second statement is wrong. Same dyno same day I went from a open air filter w/shield to a FIPK (1RWHP) gain then to a open filter w/o shield and picked up 3RWHP. Even switched it back to the shield and it was 1RWHP less than the first pull.

Again believe what you want but I was using every trick in the book to break 11's NA without touching the heads or bottom end. The guys at the time that were trying to beat my times tried every conceivable part combination at the time to beat me. I still don't know of anyone that did and can prove it.

Bill

 

[Jbauer]

so..you took the heat shield off, ran if for an hour, did the same with the heat shield and you made more power without it?
I guess my physics teacher was wrong, hot air is denser than cold air.

 

[mransr]

so..you took the heat shield off, ran if for an hour, did the same with the heat shield and you made more power without it?
I guess my physics teacher was wrong, hot air is denser than cold air.

sounds like you're confusing theory with results

 

[isjoining]

s
I guess my physics teacher was wrong, hot air is denser than cold air.

i guess so or you weren't paying attention. cold air is denser than hot air.

 

[Mustang92]

so..you took the heat shield off, ran if for an hour, did the same with the heat shield and you made more power without it?
I guess my physics teacher was wrong, hot air is denser than cold air.

We made about 20 or so pulls on the dyno that day and had about 15 minutes between pulls, hood closed, no fan blowing on the engine. The pulls without the head shield were done at the end of the day while engine was a full temp. The shield was restricting airflow to the filter that is why it picked up power. Unrestricting airflow even if warmer made more power than slighly cooler air with a shield on it. The only purpose of that shield is to prevent warm air being blown into the filter from the fan but fact is even with the shield there all it's doing is pushing the air against the shield and the filter is still sucking that same air up.

The open air filter was also backed up at the track. I competitively ran Mod Motor in FFW and NMRA for 4 years as well as pushed to find the limit of the 2v in NA trim. These same mods where tried and backed up by alot of players in the 2v game back then this isn't just the words of some old (34) guy. In fact the single best set up was an open ended filter with the inverted cone in the front that faced directly into the opening of the headlight so it would litterally act as a ram air.

Another thing to keep in mind is I live in Florida where it is in the 80-90's most of the year. I didn't have the equipment at the time but at least one guy in northern Florida if I recall had used temp probes to datalog temps in the fender, outside the heat shield and inside the heat shield. The variance was minimal between the three the biggest being between outside the heat shield and in the fender. The main difference there is that warmer IAT's mean more timing pulled, thus why running the resistor mod in the IAT helped out. Of course now there are ways to tune around that, get maximum airflow and make the most power.

Bill

 

[Jbauer]

wow, guess i'll give it a try with out the shield

 

[04sleeper]

We made about 20 or so pulls on the dyno that day and had about 15 minutes between pulls, hood closed, no fan blowing on the engine. The pulls without the head shield were done at the end of the day while engine was a full temp. The shield was restricting airflow to the filter that is why it picked up power. Unrestricting airflow even if warmer made more power than slighly cooler air with a shield on it. The only purpose of that shield is to prevent warm air being blown into the filter from the fan but fact is even with the shield there all it's doing is pushing the air against the shield and the filter is still sucking that same air up.

The open air filter was also backed up at the track. I competitively ran Mod Motor in FFW and NMRA for 4 years as well as pushed to find the limit of the 2v in NA trim. These same mods where tried and backed up by alot of players in the 2v game back then this isn't just the words of some old (34) guy. In fact the single best set up was an open ended filter with the inverted cone in the front that faced directly into the opening of the headlight so it would litterally act as a ram air.

Another thing to keep in mind is I live in Florida where it is in the 80-90's most of the year. I didn't have the equipment at the time but at least one guy in northern Florida if I recall had used temp probes to datalog temps in the fender, outside the heat shield and inside the heat shield. The variance was minimal between the three the biggest being between outside the heat shield and in the fender. The main difference there is that warmer IAT's mean more timing pulled, thus why running the resistor mod in the IAT helped out. Of course now there are ways to tune around that, get maximum airflow and make the most power.

Bill

Ha Ha.... Glad to see you back Bill.