I'm in the process of swapping over to an 80mm Pro-M and custom 4" intake tubing. I wanted to figure out if there was actual anything to gain from shoving the filter through the fender to get to "cold air."
It occured to me that since I can data log ACT with my Tweecer I can answer the question. So, I used my old setup (conical K&N sitting right where the stock air box sits) and then switched to an old Moroso cold air kit I had sitting in the garage.
I used the following routine both times:
I drove around and warmed the motor up to normal operating temp (about 180 ect). I then drove aorund for 10-15 minutes at speeds from 0 to 40 mph and monitored my ACT.
Outdoor temp was about 100 degrees. ACT was exactly the same in both cases. It ranged from 165-175 throughout both drives. It was even the same while stopped at idle for a couple of minutes.
For other cars, the data *may* vary. I have a very open engine bay - no smog, no a/c or p/s, and a cowl hood. A stock restrictive engine bay *might* give different results.
For my car, there is no advantage to putting the filter in the fender.
It occured to me that since I can data log ACT with my Tweecer I can answer the question. So, I used my old setup (conical K&N sitting right where the stock air box sits) and then switched to an old Moroso cold air kit I had sitting in the garage.
I used the following routine both times:
I drove around and warmed the motor up to normal operating temp (about 180 ect). I then drove aorund for 10-15 minutes at speeds from 0 to 40 mph and monitored my ACT.
Outdoor temp was about 100 degrees. ACT was exactly the same in both cases. It ranged from 165-175 throughout both drives. It was even the same while stopped at idle for a couple of minutes.
For other cars, the data *may* vary. I have a very open engine bay - no smog, no a/c or p/s, and a cowl hood. A stock restrictive engine bay *might* give different results.
For my car, there is no advantage to putting the filter in the fender.