Comp cam extream Energy cam with out dual springs

352Ford2 · Feb 2, 2006

Comp cams extreme Energy cam

has anyone tried to run any of the comp cams extream energy HR cam grinds with something other than their dual springs (part number 986-16 or 987-16). I have the trick flow single spring w/ dampener (part number 2500100), and really don't feel like gettting my heads machined to accept the dual springs

I was looking at the comp 35-351-8 (grind number XE270HR). Its a pretty mild cam, but the guys at comp claim its agressive ramp rates are what make it need the springs it does to dampen the load.

any body have insite or experince with this?

352Ford2 · Feb 2, 2006

Why is it that I always get very few if any responces to my threads?

come on guys I know I am not the only one that wants to save a few bucks

89white50 · Feb 2, 2006

i always get ****ty repsonses to my threads also, even with good questions. all the while the ****tiest, most brutal threads get tons of actions. i just figure its because not enough people know thier **** when you ask a serious question.

86bluecobra · Feb 2, 2006

what rpm's are you planning on running? if your springs don't have enough pressure then as the valve opens and then shuts you are going to get some floating. there hae been countless articles about HP lose due to the fact people are not running the proper springs for the cam they have. If i was you i would go and get the springs that match the cam. either that or you will lose much of the hp potential of your engine at the higher rpm's.

352Ford2 · Feb 2, 2006

89white50 said:
i always get ****ty repsonses to my threads also, even with good questions. all the while the ****tiest, most brutal threads get tons of actions. i just figure its because not enough people know thier **** when you ask a serious question.

Amen

The trick flow springs open and closed seat pressure is really close to what the comp springs have, but they claim that is not it issue, they claim its a dampening thing.

I am only going to be reving to maybe 5,500

comp uses this spring for a broad spectram of cams and this is one of the milder ones so I figure its got to have some wigle room expecialy on the end I am on.

86bluecobra · Feb 3, 2006

i was reading about springs and it seems that aslong as you are not going above a .550 lift and not reving more then 5500 rpm you should be fine.

bdazzgt · Feb 3, 2006

I run the xe-270 and i justbought some off the shelf crane springs they work great rev to 6k with no problem. Then again just because i havent had any problems yours might be different, no two motors are the same. There is always someone that says well i ran that cam with no problems when other people it didnt work for, but answering your last question. I run mine w/o double valve springs.

Rick 91GT · Feb 3, 2006

What is the installed height of the spring you want to use? What pressure it is supposed to have at that given height? What is the cam calling for?

Are you will to switch retainers or locks?

The springs control the valve, if you do not have good control of the valve you can creat harmonics that will destroy the springs, hurt power and not last. It will also allow the valves to float sooner which can also do major damage.

Proper valve train is very important... If you answer the questions above I can give you an educated answer, not a wild guess.

FORCED2DV8 · Feb 3, 2006

Like Rick said proper valve train geometry is critical to good performance and not destroying parts, If you have excessive valve float parts can break and come apart , causing other damage in the engine. By changing cams and not having the right springs, you have wasted all your time and energy. I would also reccomend using locks of some sort.

2000xp8 · Feb 3, 2006

352Ford2 said:
Why is it that I always get very few if any responces to my threads?

come on guys I know I am not the only one that wants to save a few bucks

Well, for starters, list the specs on the parts you have. Giving us the part numbers means nothing, why should we have to research the parts you have?

Second, trying to save money on the valvetrain, is not a great a idea. Save it somewhere else, if the valves float, you can do 10 times the damage cost of what it would of just cost to do it right.

I've seen in person what a set of floating valves can do, it aint' pretty or cheap.

352Ford2 · Feb 4, 2006

I really don't need a lecture on valve train dynamics

Rick 91GT said:
The springs control the valve, if you do not have good control of the valve you can creat harmonics that will destroy the springs, hurt power and not last. It will also allow the valves to float sooner which can also do major damage.

Proper valve train is very important... If you answer the questions above I can give you an educated answer, not a wild guess.

FORCED2DV8 said:
Like Rick said proper valve train geometry is critical to good performance and not destroying parts, If you have excessive valve float parts can break and come apart , causing other damage in the engine. By changing cams and not having the right springs, you have wasted all your time and energy. I would also reccomend using locks of some sort.

well aware of that stuff guys, I am not dumb. I was really kind hoping some one else had run these cams with springs like this (I know someone had used a comp cam and used the springs that come on the AFR heads for example, I just hate to be the gunnie pig)

the trick flow springs come with new 10 deg valve locks and retainers.

Cam specs: part number 35-351-8
.512/.512
218in @.05
224 ex @.05
114LSA

Trick flow valve springs
Installed height 1.800
Seat Pressure at Installed Height (lbs) 110
Open Height (in) 1.250
Open Pressure (lbs) 257

Comp
Installed Height (in) 1.750
Seat Pressure at Installed Height (lbs) 132
Open Height (in) 1.250
Open Pressure (lbs) 280

they recomend these springs for a broad range of cams, and this is one of the milder ones, thats one of the reasons I am thinking I have some wiggle room.

Rick 91GT · Feb 5, 2006

What head are you running? What is your current installed height?

The AFR springs are only 120# at the seat, 1.80" installed height, I think I still have a few sets out in the shop I took off.

That Comp Spring is pretty good and would take just about any off the shelf cam you were going to install, just stay away from anything with a asymetrical lobe they will not be enough, they do not have the open pressure.

riceeater87 · Feb 5, 2006

I just skimmed through the replies quickly, but i did not see any mention of Comps Beehive springs. They are a single spring but are very strong and have high rpm capability. I am running them in my car now with Trick Flow heads and a XE274HR cam, and the car revs right to the factory rev limiter at 6,250 without a hiccup. And in talking to the tech guys at Comp, they said mt car should rev to 6,500 or 6,800 no problem. I also have titanium locks and retainers to help lighten to drivetrain along with Pro Magnum rocker arms. Give Comp a call and check into the Beehives, they might be your ticket.

Comp cam extream Energy cam with out dual springs

352Ford2

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89white50

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86bluecobra

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352Ford2

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bdazzgt

I had to jerk off the cable to get it to stop.

Rick 91GT

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2000xp8

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