Comp Cams installation... are they for real?

68converted · Jan 22, 2008

Per Comp cams: "On hydraulic and mechanical (solid) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern.

Do these guys have any idea how difficult it is to take off the uppper Intake for an EFI car to "remove the inner springs" on my AFR 165 heads. I am not sure that I would want to mess with the $1200 heads to worry about a good wear pattern on a $100 cam (slightly used)

Can someone tell me if they are smoking the good stuff over at Comp Cams? Is this really nessesary?

Fast63 · Jan 23, 2008

they say too much pressure on the lifters will cause them to not rotate. Personally, I don't buy it because the friction and pressure is what CAUSES the thing to rotate in the first place. They also caution reusing old springs because they are too weak and will cause failure from the lifter not rotating? Is there some kind of magical median? I don't know. It seems like a bunch of BS to me, and more like just a sentence to cover their own arses, but I don't know, I have never tried it.

Maryland Stang · Jan 23, 2008

68converted said:
I am not sure that I would want to mess with the $1200 heads to worry about a good wear pattern on a $100 cam (slightly used)

I wouldn't worry about it with a used cam. The cam is already married to the lifters that were originally used anyway. The chances of prematurely wearing the cam out are greatly increased since it's used. The best thing you could do is get a new cam and follow the installation instructions.

A used roller cam is one thing but I would avoid a used flat tappet cam.

PUNISHER RACING · Jan 23, 2008

Flat tappets have been real ugly as of late and its all in the metal. I have called Comp on a Street rod engine I built that went through 2 274 Extreme flats, using a 986 spring. They don't use the same metal they used to. They even sell break in oil additive now to help prevent just such a thing. Its a PITA and its only a $100camshaft but they make alot of metal in the bottom end when they go bad.

68converted · Jan 23, 2008

Well, I am just finally getting to the point of starting this beast up after two years and I am running through the 10,000 things I learned and forgot since I first started the project. I looked up an old PDF from them when I first thought I was going to start it up and funny... that paragraph is strangely missing????

I am not going to worry about it. And the cam had about 1500 miles on it, the PO jumped up to a 274. It did not have a single scratch on any of the lobes. So basically "new".

Thanks guys

Nicoleb3x3 · Apr 15, 2009

Sorry to dig up this OLD thread, but I have the same question....is comp cams serious about removing the inner spring for break in? Seriously, what a PITA!!

I have a BRAND new cam..and BRAND NEW PARTS ALL AROUND in a new engine build....I want to listen to comp cam's "important message" but it just seems "stupid" to me...I can't see anyone other than my dumb ass actually doing the extra work.

appreciate anyones feedback if they bought a new cam and did or didn't do this proceedure and had dual springs....which I assume is common!

strtrcr50 · Apr 15, 2009

Camshaft Break-in Procedure
Important: On hydraulic and mechanical (solid) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the
inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and
develop a good wear pattern.

This does not apply to a 5.0 with roller lifters. FWIW, I keep reading that the real problem with cam breakin is all the oils removing the zinc additives. Here's an interesting read from valvoline
http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdfGM engine oil supplement is also a good zinc additive. What I've been trying to learn is if the zinc is as necessary with a roller cam.

Nicoleb3x3 · Apr 15, 2009

ohhhhhhhhh! I'm so happy now I don't have to go through all of that!

Nicoleb3x3 · Apr 15, 2009

I keep reading that the real problem with cam breakin is all the oils removing the zinc additives. Here's an interesting read from valvoline
http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdfGM

cool info! I would want to remind anyone that they better not use synthetic oil during cam or engine break-in!

strtrcr50 · Apr 15, 2009

Nicoleb3x3 said:
cool info! I would want to remind anyone that they better not use synthetic oil during cam or engine break-in!

While I agree with this, I'm curious about all the cars that come from the factory with synthetic oil.

Blown331LX · Apr 16, 2009

68converted said:
Per Comp cams: "On hydraulic and mechanical (solid) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern.

Do these guys have any idea how difficult it is to take off the uppper Intake for an EFI car to "remove the inner springs" on my AFR 165 heads. I am not sure that I would want to mess with the $1200 heads to worry about a good wear pattern on a $100 cam (slightly used)

Can someone tell me if they are smoking the good stuff over at Comp Cams? Is this really nessesary?

So wait, you have an EFI motor with a flat tappet cam??? If its an EFI setup why not just go with a full roller block, that way you have en engine that will turn up quicker and a more reliable valve train...

68converted · Apr 16, 2009

LOL... funny how these threads come back up. I have a full roller block out of a 91 Cobra. The info on their site said that we should pull it apart and check for wear, whether it is a roller or flat tappet. I ran this info by a few shop owners last year, and they laughed their heads off. I think it's a CYA kind of thing>

rd · Apr 16, 2009

The old school Chevy guys on another board, (I also have a Chevelle) have had lots of probs with flat tappet cam break in. The reduced zinc seems to have caused a much higher number of breakin failures than in the past. The advice to break in on just the outer springs has been in the Comp and other manufacturers instructions for many years. Most seem to follow it, some dont, and there seems to be success both ways.

I just did a start up on a rebuild with the same flat tappet cam that came out of the motor and same lifters, used Comp Break in Additive, and it seems fine.

It would not hurt to follow the advise.

The other common thing seems to be a rush to Shell Rotella T diesel oil since it supposedly has zinc still in it.

Blown331LX · Apr 16, 2009

68converted said:
LOL... funny how these threads come back up. I have a full roller block out of a 91 Cobra. The info on their site said that we should pull it apart and check for wear, whether it is a roller or flat tappet. I ran this info by a few shop owners last year, and they laughed their heads off. I think it's a CYA kind of thing>

Well Im sure youve had your engine apart enough to realize they must be reffering to a flat tappet only or a roller motor where the lifters car rotate, The lifters in a 5.0 Mustang engine cannot because of the lifter hold down hold them in place. I agree thats prolly a CYA disclaimer from the company. If you have a roller motor and the lifters arent shot then slide in whatever cam you want, they will not know any diference. one of the many beautys of a 5,0 HO engine.

strtrcr50 · Apr 16, 2009

rd said:
The other common thing seems to be a rush to Shell Rotella T diesel oil since it supposedly has zinc still in it.

Not anymore. Valvoline does in their racing oil. There are additives out there that have it. Prob not something on the shelf at Pep Boys though.
ZDDPlus™ - ZDDP Additive for Classic Cars - Agricultural Equipment & More
Another good read.

Comp Cams installation... are they for real?

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