Like I said, I wouldn't worry too much about the numbers. A couple clicks of the mouse can easily change the numbers by 6-8%. The real test is how it drives (idle quality, part throttle characteristics, fuel mileage, etc.) and how it runs at the track.
Yes, I'm currently in Raleigh. I've never been there, but I have several friends who have had their cars tuned by Dan at Pro Dyno. I haven't heard any complaints. The only thing I've noticed with him is that his numbers are STD corrected (vs. SAE), and STD reads about 4% higher than SAE. Not a big deal, but a little pet peave of mine when tuners use that to make it look like the car is making more power than it actually is.
Holy smokes, Squeak! Haven't seen you around these parts in ages! Good to see you around.
As to the OP, the cams absolutely need to be degreed in. I used to be of the opinion that it wasn't that important, but after I put my cams in and they were off by SIX degrees, I realized just how important it was. Mine were 6 degrees retarded, which wouldn't have hurt anything other than power, but if they happened to have been 6 degrees advanced and I installed them straight up (i.e. without degreeing), I'd likely be pulling everything back apart to fix the broken valves....
With enough time and patience, and the right tools, I think most anyone that is somewhat mechanically inclined can degree in cams. It's not a very technically challenging task, just one that takes some attention to detail. However, I'd echo Squeak's comments that it may not be the best idea for someone to try on their first time even having the valve covers off. I'd opt to pay someone else to do it in that case.
The TFS adjustable crank gears are by far the easiest and best way to degree the cams in. Don't use the adjustable cam gears.
I believe that a tune is required to get the most out of a set of cams. No major changes are needed for a mild cam, but there are some small things I'd adjust if it were my car. Idle quality, part throttle responsiveness, fuel mileage, and overall power output will suffer if the tune isn't tweaked a bit.
Definitely wouldnt be worried about the dyno #s as much as the track times and drivability. Every dyno is different. My car has seen a 80hp variance between two different dynos. How did the install go?Well looks like I will be putting 275 on the tires instead of the 305 in the rear - but 290 is still good! Luckily I already bought my SCT tuner. You are from NC correct? Have you ever been to Pro Dyno?
Definitely wouldnt be worried about the dyno #s as much as the track times and drivability. Every dyno is different. My car has seen a 80hp variance between two different dynos. How did the install go?
Keep in mind the reaction time in NO way reflects the ET. Reaction time really only matters in bracket racing or true heads up racing. What was the 60ft? Final Trap MPH?Well i have the cams in now, but the previous owner didn't take very good care of the car and I have a bad fuel pump so I'm having that replaced also. I found the time slip from the previous owner and the car ran a 8.93 in 1/8th reaction time is .009
You get it tuned? Have the graph?Okay guys - new cams are in - had some kind of trouble with the air/fuel ratio but we got it fixed.
No I haven't had it tuned yet - I am taking it next month to Pro Dyno. I am trying to figure out how to post a video on here but I can't seem to find it. Any help lol?You get it tuned? Have the graph?
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