OK, got the pulley-puller in place, radiator and fan are out and ivery time i tighten this thing, it sounds like its gonna break. The pulley isnt moving at all, and ideas?
I had to pull the PS pulley when I replaced my water pump, but I didn't have any real problems. Make sure you have a PS pulley puller, not just a generic pulley puller. The instructions that came with mine were fairly clear on how to assemble the parts, and it worked on the first try. My kit had a ball bearing in it, which made life a LOT easier.
Just make sure everything is lined up properly, and the tool doesn't start leaning to one side when you're cranking on it. It will take some effort to work the tool.
HEY! I was looking at my headgasket, and I dont see any cracks or anything. Now, I've never seen a blown headgasket in person before, but VibrantRedGT abd 94SC50 had a distinctive crack or seomthing. Mine has one spot where its a little brown but thats about it. What should I look for?
What's a good way to keep crap out of the cylinders while cleaning the block?
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I'd clean out the bolt holes (chase the threads) and apply moly lube to the upper threads, upper and lower washers, and under the bolt heads. Apply sealant to the lower bolt threads.
You can't reuse your OEM bolts. They are torque to yeild and are not reusable. You need new OEM's or better yet, ARP bolts or studs. ARP's are reusable.
IIRC, ARP bolts are ~$40. I suppose that you could get away with oil on the upper threads if you don't have or can't afford the moly lube. Could probably run some RTV on the lowers instead the ARP thread sealant.
I can't imagine Autozone (or similar) having ARP bolts. Perhaps stock replacements.
I don't know how much stock replacements are at Ford. Probably close to ARP, and I'd bet higher! Usual Ford pricing...