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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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connecting rod question

  • Thread starter Thread starter 86lxhatch
  • Start date Start date Jan 7, 2012

86lxhatch

Active Member
Nov 14, 2011
113
0
26
East Tennessee
Jan 7, 2012
#1
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #1
So I was installing my new forged pistons on my old rods the other day. I was pressing the wrist pins onto the rods with the shop press when I noticed I bent the wrist pin end of one of my rods a little (1/8" maybe...). I removed the piston and pin, then pressed the rod back straight. Should I use this rod, or replace it? The motor is probably only going to make around 260hp or so n/a...
 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
1,639
42
69
Tuscola, tx
Jan 7, 2012
#2
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #2
Replace it...stock rods are cheap...I had to buy a new rod for my first build. I think I paid all of about $25 at the time. If you scoured eBay listings, you could probably find a whole new set for $100 or less...
 

Jason 302

10 Year Member
Aug 9, 2003
685
71
68
Newark, Ohio
Jan 7, 2012
#3
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #3
Get another rod. Did you freeze the wrist pin before pressing it in? I've heard it makes a difference.
 

86lxhatch

Active Member
Nov 14, 2011
113
0
26
East Tennessee
Jan 7, 2012
#4
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #4
I just pressed them in. I bent the first rod I tried because I was learning. After that one, I lubed up the wrist pins with motor oil, and they pressed right into place with no problems. Do any of you guys have a good stock 5.0 rod laying around? I'll pay shipping!
 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
1,639
42
69
Tuscola, tx
Jan 7, 2012
#5
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #5
I wish I did-I'd be glad to help, but I'm mostly out of all my 5.0 stuff. I think the machine shop I used to take my stuff to heated the small end of the rod and then pressed them in-lubed of course like you mentioned.

I actually bought mine from a auto parts store/machine shop that was local to me at the time. You might wanna give your local shops a call just for S&Gs...
 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
1,639
42
69
Tuscola, tx
Jan 7, 2012
#6
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #6
here ya go...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Small-...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

...even better-new rod bolts...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Ford-3...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
1,639
42
69
Tuscola, tx
Jan 7, 2012
#7
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #7
here's a couple of spares if you need them....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-302-RO...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
 

86lxhatch

Active Member
Nov 14, 2011
113
0
26
East Tennessee
Jan 7, 2012
#8
  • Jan 7, 2012
  • #8
Thanks tex, I'll look into those!
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Jan 8, 2012
#9
  • Jan 8, 2012
  • #9
The new rod will have to be weight matched to the others or youll be out of balance...VERY IMPORTANT

If you swapped pistons I hope you had the entire assembly balanced...
 

86lxhatch

Active Member
Nov 14, 2011
113
0
26
East Tennessee
Jan 8, 2012
#10
  • Jan 8, 2012
  • #10
The pistons came as a weight matched set. I understand I need to match the rod weight...do the rods have to be weight matched to the pistons, or is it that all the components(rods, pistons) together need to weigh the same? I hope this makes sense...I think I'm starting to confuse myself!!
 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
1,639
42
69
Tuscola, tx
Jan 8, 2012
#11
  • Jan 8, 2012
  • #11
Rods matched to each other-rods all need to be within a certain weight...e.g, 1-458.6, 2-459, 3-458.2, 4-459.1, etc etc. Your machinist will know what to do.

good call Rick...wasn't thinkin'...just wanted to help the man find some rods.
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Jan 9, 2012
#12
  • Jan 9, 2012
  • #12
rod, crank, wrist pins, rings and bearings all need to be a specific weight based on the weight of the crank... THEY all have to be balanced together if any part is changed.
 
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