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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Cowl removal questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangman16
  • Start date Start date Feb 9, 2007

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
Feb 9, 2007
#1
  • Feb 9, 2007
  • #1
How do you get the cowl apart at the corner of the windshields where it's brazed? Is that something I just carefully take a dremel tool to and try and cut inside of the brazing?

Also, how does the fender to cowl extentions come off?


Those spot weld drill bits work rather nice, I already broke a tooth from it slipping, so I guess I need to drill a small pilot hole in each spot weld for the spot weld drill bit.
 

GT1966

Member
Sep 26, 2002
69
2
9
Maine
Feb 9, 2007
#2
  • Feb 9, 2007
  • #2
cowl removal

yeah, there is no real science to removing the brazed ends.....I used a cut-off wheel in the dremel and just cut far enough to free things without plunging through the two pieces. As for the fender extensions, you're going to replace them anyway, so just cut through the spotwelds to the inner fender and then chisel / grind them off the upper cowl bulge. I've got plenty of pix if you wish to see any stage of the process.
GT1966
 

67 Evil Eleanor

New Member
Nov 22, 2006
66
0
0
SW Virginia
Feb 9, 2007
#3
  • Feb 9, 2007
  • #3
Use a punch and wack it with a hammer to demple the spot weld before you start to cut. This will keep your spot weld cutter from dancing. I usually break about three cutters per one removal.
 

enferno

Member
Jun 20, 2006
418
2
16
Feb 9, 2007
#4
  • Feb 9, 2007
  • #4
67 Evil Eleanor said:
Use a punch and wack it with a hammer to demple the spot weld before you start to cut. This will keep your spot weld cutter from dancing. I usually break about three cutters per one removal.
Click to expand...


or go to harbor freight! they have spring loaded punches for like $5


this made my cowl replacement a whoooooooole lot smoother. you can just go and punch all of the spot welds, then drill. no need to pick up hammer and a punch and switch back and forth.
 

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
Feb 10, 2007
#5
  • Feb 10, 2007
  • #5
67 Evil Eleanor said:
Use a punch and wack it with a hammer to demple the spot weld before you start to cut. This will keep your spot weld cutter from dancing. I usually break about three cutters per one removal.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I used the punch to start, but it still walks around and I broke 1 tooth after 10 or so spot welds that I cut through. This time I figure I'm going to use the punch, drill with a real small bit only through the first layer of metal and then use the spot weld bit. I don't want to keep going to northern tools to get another bit.
 

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
Feb 10, 2007
#6
  • Feb 10, 2007
  • #6
GT1966 said:
yeah, there is no real science to removing the brazed ends.....I used a cut-off wheel in the dremel and just cut far enough to free things without plunging through the two pieces. As for the fender extensions, you're going to replace them anyway, so just cut through the spotwelds to the inner fender and then chisel / grind them off the upper cowl bulge. I've got plenty of pix if you wish to see any stage of the process.
GT1966
Click to expand...

I might be sending you an e-mail for some pics...
 

stangman16

Active Member
Nov 16, 2004
640
4
29
San Antonio, TX
Feb 10, 2007
#7
  • Feb 10, 2007
  • #7
enferno said:
or go to harbor freight! they have spring loaded punches for like $5


this made my cowl replacement a whoooooooole lot smoother. you can just go and punch all of the spot welds, then drill. no need to pick up hammer and a punch and switch back and forth.
Click to expand...

I might have to get one of those!
 

enferno

Member
Jun 20, 2006
418
2
16
Feb 10, 2007
#8
  • Feb 10, 2007
  • #8
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90603


 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Feb 11, 2007
#9
  • Feb 11, 2007
  • #9
stangman16 said:
Yeah, I used the punch to start, but it still walks around and I broke 1 tooth after 10 or so spot welds that I cut through. This time I figure I'm going to use the punch, drill with a real small bit only through the first layer of metal and then use the spot weld bit. I don't want to keep going to northern tools to get another bit.
Click to expand...

They do sell replacement bits and not the whole assembly.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14686&itemType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14687&itemType=PRODUCT
 
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