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Engine Cracked Block Near Right Coolant Inlet Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter jphisp01
  • Start date Start date Jan 25, 2017
J

jphisp01

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Jan 15, 2017
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#1
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #1
I cracked the block while i was installing High Flow water pump.
Over tightened the bolt near the right inlet (basically came out like a dog ear in 2 pcs)

How screwed am I? If just coolant flowing there can I JB Weld it?

This is on a 1987 Mustang GT 5.0 just a cruiser, all stock

Thanks
John
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
Mod Dude
Jul 20, 2014
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#2
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #2
Did you crack the engine block,or the timing cover?
Add pics
 
J

jphisp01

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#3
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #3
block, working on photos
 
J

jphisp01

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  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #4
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#5
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #5
Man, I've never seen that
Does it leak? Can't tell if it got into the passage, I imagine it did.
Wonder what @jrichker thinks about it.
 

liljoe07

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Jan 25, 2017
#6
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #6
It's done. You can rig it to possibly hold you out for a while. But I'd be looking for another engine or block.
 
J

jphisp01

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#7
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #7
karthief said:
Man, I've never seen that
Does it leak? Can't tell if it got into the passage, I imagine it did.
Wonder what @jrichker thinks about it.
Click to expand...


not sure if leaks, still putting it together. the theaded recess slipt, so im fusing that together at the moment, then i'll attempt putting it into the gap
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#8
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #8
What do you mean by threaded recess?
 
J

jphisp01

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#9
  • Jan 25, 2017
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karthief said:
What do you mean by threaded recess?
Click to expand...


where the threads pass thru , I'll try to grab a pic
 
J

jphisp01

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#10
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  • #10
 
J

jphisp01

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#11
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #11
that was in 2 pcs, i've jb welded them together and let it set-up in a visegrip
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,923
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Jan 25, 2017
#12
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #12
That piece broke off the block? Never seen that. Good luck, keep us posted on the outcome.
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
Mod Dude
Jul 20, 2014
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Jan 25, 2017
#13
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #13
Maybe tap it for a pipe plug and seal it to the threads? And switch to a 7lb radiator cap

@madmike1157 - @90sickfox - you guys are masters of the craft,what do y'all think?
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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#14
  • Jan 25, 2017
  • #14
Slather the edge up with silicone and stick it on there. Wipe the excess silicone away and let it set up. Then tack weld it to hold it in place. Then remove the bottom rubber seal off the radiator cap and run a non pressurized coolant system. Keep your coolant mix 50/50. See what happens
 
Reactions: General karthief

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
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Jan 26, 2017
#15
  • Jan 26, 2017
  • #15
If it was me,.....That piece would be glued back on there using JB or a better epoxy. The problem is that it looks like a load bearing part...(The water pump is bolted through there)

So,...what do you do?

You use a stud there instead of a bolt. There are still remaining threads left in the block,..Screw that stud in there, glue the piece back on setting it right on top of the existing threads on the stud (Liberally,..so the epoxy goozes out everywhere) and let it set up overnight,

You may be able to use the stud as a clamp method by threading a nut onto the stud after you have the broken piece put back on,..just make sure to keep the nut and exposed stud threads free of any of the epoxy.

Fix-u-lated.
 
Reactions: RaggedGT

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Jan 26, 2017
#16
  • Jan 26, 2017
  • #16
OK...I'll attempt to help...

My last venture with QuickSteel epoxy made me a huge believer in the product...my oil pan had a pin hole and that stuff sealed it up with no problem. JB Weld has been the product I've chosen in the past but lately it hasn't been holding up like it used to....especially around oil.

That being said...there is no oil on that area of your block. I'd clean the hell out of that area and use epoxy weld JB or QuickWeld to seal that baby up.

You can coat a stud...or bolt with grease or vasaline( lightly..not gunked up ). Stick the broken piece on and emmediately thread the bolt in. Let it cure and remove the bolt.

The best way to fix that area would be to get the broken part welded back on. I've welded a starter mount ear back onto a Chevy 350 motor. It worked for years.

Good luck, man....and keep us posted on how you fix it.
 
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