Crank Will not turn (and Need help on block Identification)
I have 2 blocks right now on stands both are striped to the block and still have the Crank/Rods/Pistons in them one turns and one don't. The one that turns is one that came out of a Merkur the other was rebuilt before I bought it but dont turn. I really don't want to tear it down and redo it to ensure that all of the parts are in properly. What can I do to get that to turn before I tear it apart?
Only want it to turn so I can ensure that it is working properly before I build on that block.
I have 2 blocks right now on stands both are striped to the block and still have the Crank/Rods/Pistons in them one turns and one don't. The one that turns is one that came out of a Merkur the other was rebuilt before I bought it but dont turn. I really don't want to tear it down and redo it to ensure that all of the parts are in properly. What can I do to get that to turn before I tear it apart?
Only want it to turn so I can ensure that it is working properly before I build on that block.
latroca1
New Member
Try a half inch drive breaker bar somewhat long like i got one that is about two feet long with good leverage.
The more leverage the better you work less!!!!
Pull the valve cover easy to do and for a quick check the followers and iternals!!!
I would also check the distributor make sure it's not cocked or the shaft aint bent.
My old car i had a 77' monza i did the time n chain my ase certified boss forced the distributor in the hole and was not line up correctly you can guess what happened when i turned the key it wiped the main bearings... I could of killed him.
But if it's been rebuilt does it have oil in it already????
If you havent filled it or ran it!! It just might need a lube and finese!! if it sat awhile.
I would think if the motor sat for awhile the oil would break down and lose vicocity and what ever moisture seperates would cling to the piston walls and form just enough surface rust to make things difficult.
Hope this helps!!!!
The more leverage the better you work less!!!!
Pull the valve cover easy to do and for a quick check the followers and iternals!!!
I would also check the distributor make sure it's not cocked or the shaft aint bent.
My old car i had a 77' monza i did the time n chain my ase certified boss forced the distributor in the hole and was not line up correctly you can guess what happened when i turned the key it wiped the main bearings... I could of killed him.
But if it's been rebuilt does it have oil in it already????
If you havent filled it or ran it!! It just might need a lube and finese!! if it sat awhile.
I would think if the motor sat for awhile the oil would break down and lose vicocity and what ever moisture seperates would cling to the piston walls and form just enough surface rust to make things difficult.
Hope this helps!!!!
latroca1
New Member
I'm sorry i don't know where my minds at try some wd40 spray it in the cylinders bet you got a little bit of a lip a ring is catching on.
If it's a bare block then it shouldn't be much to tear down and look inside youre right there!!!!
If it's a bare block then it shouldn't be much to tear down and look inside youre right there!!!!
Ok i am standing in front of the 2 blocks, Tore the working one down to match the one that was rebuilt to compare. I now have a different question I am seeing that the 2 blocks are different the oilpan on one has a lip on the ends that corresponds with the block and on the other it is smooth. I dont have a oil pan for the smooth end one so I need some info on this. On the main block Oil pan side what years have the lip and what year is smooth????? trying to get pics to explain my rambling.
sorry Cant figure out on how to post pics yet please cut and paste in new window have marked the places I was talking about in red
(Smooth block where oil pan attaches)
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21491&stc=1
(Groove in oil pan)
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21490
(Groove on block pan came from)
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21489
sorry Cant figure out on how to post pics yet please cut and paste in new window have marked the places I was talking about in red
(Smooth block where oil pan attaches)
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21491&stc=1
(Groove in oil pan)
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21490
(Groove on block pan came from)
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21489
So if anyone can shed the light on this situation please do so, the dirty one (grooved) came from a Merker but the other is a bit of a Mystery at this point
Well I compared both blocks down to the crank (did not Pull Pistons) and they are the same setup and with simple removal of some parts I answered the question of the blocks being the same Both Metric ( I am assuming both are Merker now) But still the pistons will not move so I am thinking it is a lubrication problem. The othe block that moves freely needs to be Honed bad so a rebuild on that is going to be a must.
On the other, what Lube can I use on the pistons to help out and not harm anything?
On the other, what Lube can I use on the pistons to help out and not harm anything?
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