Custom Panhard bar

livenfine

New Member

Jun 9, 2003

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Nov 6, 2003

#1

• Nov 6, 2003

• #1

After my first year of autocross, the lateral movement of the rear differential has caused the insides of my tires to hammer the exhaust and quad shocks. I need a PHB, but $350 to $500 and up. ouch!

I have a PHB out of a truck that looks like it could work, it has a ball joint on one end and a bushing on the other. Has anyone ever tried to custom make a PHB? Any success stories or things I should watch out for? Thanks.

 

livenfine

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Jun 9, 2003

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Nov 6, 2003

#2

• Nov 6, 2003

• #2

bump

 

89Notch

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Oct 21, 1999

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MSU

Nov 6, 2003

#3

• Nov 6, 2003

• #3

if you are serious in road racing i would rather spend the money on a proven one that will work a lot better than a random bar that hasn't been tested and may fail and cause a lot more damage...

 

makarov

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Jul 9, 2003

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Forestville, CA

Nov 6, 2003

#4

• Nov 6, 2003

• #4

Summit carries a competition engineering panhard bar for 75.95, a weld in unit. They carry another ce weld in "magnum series" for 115.95, or a bolt on model for 62.95.

 

3

331 cobra

New Member

Oct 14, 2003

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Silicon Valley CA

Nov 6, 2003

#5

• Nov 6, 2003

• #5

89Notch said:

if you are serious in road racing i would rather spend the money on a proven one that will work a lot better than a random bar that hasn't been tested and may fail and cause a lot more damage...

Click to expand...

While caution can be good, common sense can save money.

All you have to do is look at what is available, look at what real racers use, then make sure that the piece you make is stronger.

Look at the catalog of Stock Car Products. Those nascar types make some real cheap parts. If they will survive Daytona and Sears Point, you would be hard pressed to break it.

 

89Notch

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Oct 21, 1999

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#6

• Nov 6, 2003

• #6

"you get what you pay for"

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

Founding Member

Jan 15, 2002

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89

Dallas, GA

Nov 6, 2003

#7

• Nov 6, 2003

• #7

I definatly going for one of these. Almost every vehicle out there with solid rear axel has one, except ours. 4 link is one of the best setups for the straight line, but not so great for the corners. Good lowers are important too for keeping the rear axel straight.

 

livenfine

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Jun 9, 2003

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Nov 7, 2003

#8

• Nov 7, 2003

• #8

331 cobra said:

While caution can be good, common sense can save money.

All you have to do is look at what is available, look at what real racers use, then make sure that the piece you make is stronger.

Look at the catalog of Stock Car Products. Those nascar types make some real cheap parts. If they will survive Daytona and Sears Point, you would be hard pressed to break it.

Click to expand...

Where exactly does one look for Stock Car Products?

I think I'll try to customize this one I have. Worst case-It won't work and I'll have to remove it. Are there any tricks, concerns or info I may need to know?

I assume I'll need to place a bracket on the left rear of the diff housing and another on the subframe on the right side. THanks

 

GroverDill

GoldMember

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Aug 18, 1999

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Nov 7, 2003

#9

• Nov 7, 2003

• #9

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/

 

3

331 cobra

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Oct 14, 2003

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Silicon Valley CA

Nov 7, 2003

#10

• Nov 7, 2003

• #10

89Notch said:

"you get what you pay for"

Click to expand...

There are tons of race car shops in indianpolis. There are so many, they are seriously competitive on prices. You can find parts selling at close to zero margin. I don't think stock car products is in indianpolis, but they compete with those shops.

You get what the salesman sells you.

The price you pay is a reflection of how well you shop.

 

all1knew

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Feb 15, 2004

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Macomb, IL - 61455

May 2, 2004

#11

• May 2, 2004

• #11

makarov said:

Summit carries a competition engineering panhard bar for 75.95, a weld in unit. They carry another ce weld in "magnum series" for 115.95, or a bolt on model for 62.95.

Click to expand...

Which would be the best unit to buy from Summit. I really like Competition Engineering stuff; their quality is really good. Is it a big weld job? Why are these so moderately priced while others are so expensive?

Please let me know either way. Thank you.

Bill Kramer

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/568764

 

TIMMY2734

Founding Member

May 17, 2002

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Queens, NY

May 2, 2004

#12

• May 2, 2004

• #12

If you do a search at corner carvers, i know theres a few threads about fabricating your own brackets and what not for the panhard bar

 

8

85GTlover

New Member

Mar 20, 2004

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May 2, 2004

#13

• May 2, 2004

• #13

I want to fabricate all parts like that panhard,traction bar,strut tower brace, K member or G brace and the bar to sopport the rear towers behind the back seat. I cannot see if it is welded nice and strong and you use the same or better materials why there should be a problem. i thought panhards were 300-400 dollars. I seen a used one sell for $300, so I wonder how these others are so cheap. I must say, that stock car parts site has got a lot of good parts and some great information.

 

livenfine

New Member

Jun 9, 2003

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May 22, 2004

#14

• May 22, 2004

• #14

These stock car parts are for left turners only, not autocrossers. Stay with MM, steeda or build a similar one. For the $350, it's probably well worth it!

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

8,015

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NJ

May 22, 2004

#15

• May 22, 2004

• #15

Goto ebay, and search, there's a guy on there that sells maximum motorsports panhard bars for 319 free shipping, that's the best i've seen so far. That's about 20 bucks cheaper and you save about 20 bucks on shipping. Save up for it, i've heard it's far superior to anything else, besides i've also heard if you break a cheap panhard bar under hard cornering you are in big trouble.

 

8

85GTlover

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Mar 20, 2004

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May 22, 2004

#16

• May 22, 2004

• #16

livenfine said:

These stock car parts are for left turners only, not autocrossers. Stay with MM, steeda or build a similar one. For the $350, it's probably well worth it![/QUOTE

Hey it is only 7am and I already learned something new....I figured ther had to be something fishy about those cheap p/h set ups.......that explains it

Click to expand...

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

6

79

Charlotte, NC

May 22, 2004

#17

• May 22, 2004

• #17

As far as design elements -- 1) make it adjustable, preferably with threaded attachments on both ends so that you can loosen locknuts and adjust the length with the unit attached on both ends. This is easier than just having one end adjustable and having to remove the bar at one attachment point to rotate it. It also gives you infinite adjustability; the other way you're limited to increments based on the thread pitch. 2) ideally the bar should sit near level when the suspension is at ride height. This minimizes lateral movement of the axle due to the 'arc' the bar swings through as the suspension rolls. 3) Pay really close attention to the bracket design for strength - especially the longer they are. Hard cornering can put a heckuva load on a long bracket - moment arm effect. You'll have a bigger challenge keeping the brackets from flexing than you will from the rod itself. 4) Set it up for poly bushings for street/heim ends (solid) for racing. And know that the solid set up will transmit a lot of noise.