cutting factory springs.

How much are u looking to go down??? I cut my springs 1 1/2 rounds about a months ago. it droped my car 2" in front and 1 3/4" out back. I have to re mount my steel brake line thats mounted on the fender well on the passenger side and i have some minor rubbing at full wheel lock. The ride of my car is not bad at all it just put my LT headers about 2" off ground. But it did set off my car more!!
 
How much does a shop charge for that anyways.I'm on my way to buying some new shock and struts soon,i've been thinking about cutting my springs while i'm saving up for the new suspension meanwhile. I want about 1.5 inch drop on mines at a even stance. Don't you need to cut the back slightly a bit more to get an even stance in a fox?
 
Most springs, inluding factory springs are progressive rate springs. They start off soft and progressivly get firmer as they compress. What you are going to do is cut the softer part off and the car will drop down some but what's going to happen is it's going to ride much harder but the spring itself won't be firmer when you need it. The only springs that are ok to cut are specific rate springs. Most people who cut springs dont' get what they were looking for except a lower ride.

It's more tricky, but you can try heating the springs and they will start to sagg and when they cool they will stay that way. Adding more carbon (richer fuel mixture with torch) will make the steel firmer but more brittle. I have scene this done before, and has been done quite sucessfully, much better than cutting the springs, but if you don't do it right, your screwed.
 
90mustangGT said:
Most springs, inluding factory springs are progressive rate springs. They start off soft and progressivly get firmer as they compress. What you are going to do is cut the softer part off and the car will drop down some but what's going to happen is it's going to ride much harder but the spring itself won't be firmer when you need it. The only springs that are ok to cut are specific rate springs. Most people who cut springs dont' get what they were looking for except a lower ride.

It's more tricky, but you can try heating the springs and they will start to sagg and when they cool they will stay that way. Adding more carbon (richer fuel mixture with torch) will make the steel firmer but more brittle. I have scene this done before, and has been done quite sucessfully, much better than cutting the springs, but if you don't do it right, your screwed.


The problem with using the "heat" method is that the springs compress to a smaller state un-evenly from each other. Its very very difficult to monitor the height of the coil when using heat.

Cutting the spring will lead to nothing but a crappy ride. Don't do it, not even if its temporary... its not worth it and if you ever need your stock set-up back for whatever reason, too bad, you already hacked that $hit up. Just lower the car the right way.
 
88GT4u2nv said:
is a coil too much for a spring cut. not to worried about the ride due to the fact that its a temp job till the pro-kit is in my price range.
thanks guys

I would recommend waiting to get the aftermarket springs. I have cut the stock springs, and although it is not as bad as most people will tell you, it is very cost effective to get good springs. If you do cut the springs the ride can be improved somewhat by matching the new spring rate with new shocks. I didn't change my shocks so I can't offer any advice as to what to shocks you need.

By the way, cutting springs with a hacksaw sucks. Definitely use a cutting wheel.
 
Well i'll wait and get them then,i'm going to buy new shocks soon like in 2 weeks,and then new struts. Then i'll get c/c plates and springs together. I might do it all myself if i get a hold of my friends tools.
 
poneypower89 said:
The problem with using the "heat" method is that the springs compress to a smaller state un-evenly from each other. Its very very difficult to monitor the height of the coil when using heat.
So is the hack job method. You won't know the exact ride height until all is back together. Even then, hope you get it right the first time because if you go to far you cannot reverse it.
I also agree that it is a cheap way to lower a car. Progressive springs are not made to have that kind of operation.
 
88GT4u2nv said:
is a coil too much for a spring cut. not to worried about the ride due to the fact that its a temp job till the pro-kit is in my price range.
thanks guys

This is a dumb idea. I've seen them heated up and pressed down, which is what I would do if you want to do this the hillbilly way. Don't be surprised when something breaks due to the fact you wanted to save a penny. You're limiting your space and the spring can't do it's job when you do this. Spend the $200 and get EIBACHS.
 
Don't cut the stock springs. The ride is really firm and gets annoying rather quickly. When I bought my car the previous owner had cut the springs to lower the car about 2". Now the springs have weakend and the rear end is smacking the bumpstops on bumpy roads. :mad: Now I'm forced to go out and buy new springs with money I don't have. :notnice:
 
cutting factory springs

It can be done but why? Ford Racing 5300-c springs are about the most inexpensive set available. Lowering springs are ENGINEERED to work with your Mustang backyard cut springs or heated springs are potentially dangerous....you have to be a pretty good backyard "engineer" to outsmart the professionals...besides, I have seen cut springs fall out of their pockets and onto the ground when the weight of the car was taken off, like jacking up the car or putting it up on a lift. :bang:
 
Autobodypro_1 said:
I have seen cut springs fall out of their pockets and onto the ground when the weight of the car was taken off, like jacking up the car or putting it up on a lift. :bang:
I was just thinking about this before I got to your post. I saw it happen to a ricer CRX awhile ago when he tempted an intersection that was famous for quite a road crown the opposite way :D