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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Damn brake booster bolt

  • Thread starter Thread starter TrophyHead
  • Start date Start date May 10, 2004

TrophyHead

15 Year Member
Mar 18, 2003
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May 10, 2004
#1
  • May 10, 2004
  • #1
Hey guys I'm having a hell of a time trying to get one of those brake booster bolts out. I tried it with an extension bar but it still couldn't grab the bolt. Do they make a flared extension bar or something along those lines?
Help me out guys. Thanks
 

ALMOST STOCK

Founding Member
Sep 23, 2000
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May 10, 2004
#2
  • May 10, 2004
  • #2
I've pulled my brake booster out 3 times and I've found the best way to remove the 4 nuts is to use a 14mm deep socket on a 1/4 drive with 18" extension and a swivel.
EDIT:
You did remove the seat didn't you?
 

TrophyHead

15 Year Member
Mar 18, 2003
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May 10, 2004
#3
  • May 10, 2004
  • #3
I didnt move the seat. I'm trying to spin that rod 1.5 turns like Matt's website says when using 73MM calipers with a stock MC/BB. Not sure if I just unblot all the brake lines from the MC and the 2 bolts on the brake booster. But the strut tower is in the way of the one bolt.

Am I in the right direction? This is my first time messing around with a master cylinder and stuff. I kinda just figured that the rod was in the Brake booster.
 

ALMOST STOCK

Founding Member
Sep 23, 2000
1,250
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CA.
May 10, 2004
#4
  • May 10, 2004
  • #4
I thought you were trying to remove the brake booster from under the dash where it's attached to the firewall
What you’re trying to is separate the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster RIGHT?
In that case you should be able to use a regular deep socket on a 3/8" drive or a boxed end wrench to remove the 2 nuts.
I'd go ahead and remove the 2 lines from the Master Cylinder that go to the combination valve that’s below the master cylinder it will sure make life a lot easier when trying to work on adjusting the rod. You'll also have to bleed the brakes if you open the either one of the lines.
 

BlackFox5.0

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
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May 10, 2004
#5
  • May 10, 2004
  • #5
ALMOST STOCK said:
I'd go ahead and remove the 2 lines from the Master Cylinder that go to the combination valve that’s below the master cylinder it will sure make life a lot easier when trying to work on adjusting the rod. You'll also have to bleed the brakes if you open the either one of the lines.
Click to expand...


I wouldn't do that I took the 2 nuts off, the just moved the MC out of the way (tilted it forward) which bents the lines a little, the lines are pretty flexible so you should have no problem, just try not ot ben dthem too much. If you take the lines off, your going to have to bleed ALL 4 wheels, which I think is a LOT more work
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,237
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224
Massachusetts
May 10, 2004
#6
  • May 10, 2004
  • #6
BlackFox5.0 said:
I wouldn't do that I took the 2 nuts off, the just moved the MC out of the way (tilted it forward) which bents the lines a little, the lines are pretty flexible so you should have no problem, just try not ot ben dthem too much. If you take the lines off, your going to have to bleed ALL 4 wheels, which I think is a LOT more work
Click to expand...

That's all I did for mine.

 

TrophyHead

15 Year Member
Mar 18, 2003
1,195
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May 10, 2004
#7
  • May 10, 2004
  • #7
Got it guys thanks a lot.
 
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