Dccontroller users, got a question for you.....

JH96GT · May 31, 2008

Does your temp fluxuate when driving? I've noticed mine goes from 185 to almost 200 while driving in town. Now I know that the controller will cool the car off, because at 200*F the Mark fan I have is at full blast. (185 it is off, or barely operating) I'm just curious if your controller keeps your cars at a constant temp all of them time, or does it vary some like mine?

Confused yet?.....lol

frcefedlx · May 31, 2008

My temp is real consistant no matter what type of driving I am doing. I am running the settings it had right out of the box. I stay on the N(stock guage) and it does not go up much if any through stop and go traffic.

HISSIN50 · May 31, 2008

As noted, it should be pretty constant unless you start to outrun the fan's capacity. You said you're good there.

What degree t-stat do you use and is it balanced?

Check the fusible link of the controller for bubbles or other signs of it starting to degrade.

JH96GT · May 31, 2008

HISSIN50 said:
As noted, it should be pretty constant unless you start to outrun the fan's capacity. You said you're good there.

What degree t-stat do you use and is it balanced?

Check the fusible link of the controller for bubbles or other signs of it starting to degrade.

I've got a 180 stat, and I doubt it is balanced. Just a parts store special. I shouldn't be outrunning the fans capacity. Got a pic of the fusible link? If it is what I'm thinking of, my application didn't require one being that both the + & - is hooked to the battery....... dunno....

As always, thanks Hissin

93 LX · May 31, 2008

nice 86 capri! i have an 82 RS 5.0L myself..

JH96GT · May 31, 2008

Thanks. I always liked the 82's as well.............

Pic whoring opportunity........................

View attachment 316121

View attachment 316122

93GTosu · May 31, 2008

the fusible link is the tanish wire. In the event of a short or overload or somethin.....the actual wire itself (the tan one) will burn up (sacrificing itself like a fuse) in order to save the other stuff. If i recall...it hooks to the battery??

As for the problem...is the sensor sitting completely flush into the radiator on the correct side/place??

VERY nice Capri btw

JH96GT · May 31, 2008

93GTosu said:
the fusible link is the tanish wire. In the event of a short or overload or somethin.....the actual wire itself (the tan one) will burn up (sacrificing itself like a fuse) in order to save the other stuff. If i recall...it hooks to the battery??

As for the problem...is the sensor sitting completely flush into the radiator on the correct side/place??

VERY nice Capri btw

Thank you.

Yep. It was a little loose, so I moved it one slot over to make it snug. Wasn't loose enough to fall out, so maybe that was the issue?....? And the fusible link looks fine.

I know where the probe goes, but what will happen if I move it up the side of the radiator? I've been told to move it upwards out of the left-bottom corner, but that is where Baskin says put it. What will that do?

Thanks...

HISSIN50 · May 31, 2008

The controller takes into account that the probe is in the outlet area of the rad and compensates for it - I would not want to move the probe or you might end up with the fan running and the stat partially closed.

The exterior of the probe is made to conform to its surroundings. You could move it one row up just to get a fresh set of fins. Note that in order to remove it, it might need to be warm (so be careful of burning yourself).

A cheap stat can cause issues with inconsistancy and hysteresis. It's just something to keep way in the back of your mind if all else fails.

GTOSU has you covered with the link. If this issue keeps up, keep an eye on the link. The controllers seem to be very sensitive to their power source in my experience.

Good luck.

JH96GT · Jun 1, 2008

Cool, thnx.

Have you guys got any pics of where your rad sensors are mounted? I know where it goes, but am just curious. Also, how tight is the fit?

HISSIN50 · Jun 1, 2008

No pics.

My probe is just above the lower radiator hose bung. After insertion I pushed the fins back a little so it's a tight fit. The probe molding to the confines keeps it tight.

gimpster · Jun 11, 2008

JH96GT,

I no longer have the vehicle that my DCC w/Taurus fan was on (thanks to a guy who ran a red light) but when I began to have a problem with that car similar to what you describe, it turned out to be a partially clogged radiator. Apparently my home flushing every 1-2 years wasn't good enough to keep some stuff from accumulating in the lower portion of the radiator and it needed a good cleaning out. Once the radiator shop did their thing on it, everything was back to OK.

So, when looking for the problem, make sure that your coolant is flowing properly and that the radiator is clear. Good luck with it.

JH96GT · Jun 11, 2008

gimpster said:
JH96GT,

I no longer have the vehicle that my DCC w/Taurus fan was on (thanks to a guy who ran a red light) but when I began to have a problem with that car similar to what you describe, it turned out to be a partially clogged radiator. Apparently my home flushing every 1-2 years wasn't good enough to keep some stuff from accumulating in the lower portion of the radiator and it needed a good cleaning out. Once the radiator shop did their thing on it, everything was back to OK.

So, when looking for the problem, make sure that your coolant is flowing properly and that the radiator is clear. Good luck with it.

Thanks.

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