Dear God Why? OVERHEATING AGAIN!

Strype · Feb 25, 2007

1993 Notch
5 Speed
64,000 Original
Everything works including Heat & A/C

Okay some of you may remember that I had problems with overheating last year. So I did the following:

New Radiator
1995 Taurus Electric Fan (Set to run constantly)
Antifreeze Change
Thermostat Change
Hoses Changed

Okay. So that seemed to have worked last year. So I pulled it out today for the first long drive in a while and it did fine. I stopped and went here and there. So then I went to the quarter wash after driving on and off all day and went to my mom's. When I got there the guage was at over 210 degrees. So I shut it off and let the fan run then recranked it and let it idle and it came right back down to 190.

Then I held the throttle about 3,000 rpm for about 30 seconds and it shot right back up over 210 again

What gives? Will anything else cause this?

It was getting a little hot with the stock fan on it too last year.

Thanks!

86bluecobra · Feb 25, 2007

You do have a mechanical temp gauge? Did you put a new rad cap on it? Any chance you can do a pressure test on your system? Any oil in the coolant? Any bubbles?

90mustangGT · Feb 25, 2007

Is the heat going to your radiator?

Does the engine actually getting hot?

Is the coolant full?

Do you have pressure in the cooling system?

Is the overflow bottle overfill, or does it go empty?

If the bottle is full, is the radiator low?

Are there any coolant leaks?

If there are no coolant leaks, are you loosing coolant?

Quikstang · Feb 25, 2007

Does the car run hot while you are driving or just after you have stopped?

GTOreturns · Feb 25, 2007

Ive noticed when I get little pin hole leaks somewhere it runs hot! REAL LITTLE pin hole leaks. Another factor could be the stock cats clogging. Again, these are expereinces Ive had! But rule #1, check the level, make sure the rad is full.

BLOWN 5.0 FOX · Feb 25, 2007

I have had a similar issue- turned out to be a junk radiator- clogged with electrolytes clogging flow simply look under the cap and check out the cond of the fins

gcwh02 · Feb 25, 2007

did you get a new radiator cap with your new rad?

Strype · Feb 26, 2007

Yeah I got a new radiator cap.

Well... Not 1 hour after posting this I found it needed antifreeze. So I put some water in the over flow and let it idle, then I put more and it took it, then more...

So it ran 165 the whole way home (30 minute drive).

I get home and turn it off and sure enough- Antifreeze starts leaking from the radiator. I've never seen it leak so I assume it happened when I was out in it that day. So I have to take my new fan off to see where the leak is. Thanks guys hopefully I just have a loose hose or something. I'll be posting what I find

Curse · Feb 26, 2007

Hope its a quick fix, good luck!

DMAN302 · Feb 26, 2007

quite often you will need to retighten the hose clamps...may not be obvious untill pressure builds, and may not be significant but low coolant will cause heat issues...good luck broder.

HISSIN50 · Feb 26, 2007

FWIW, every PSI in the cooling system is worth ~3*F towards increasing the boiling point of E/G antifreeze. 3 PSI * 16 PSI rad cap = 48*F higher boiling point, right in the sweet spot too (a 50/50 mix of water and E/G at 1 ATM has a surprisingly low boiling point).

If you have a cooling system tester, you can use it for narrow down your current leak or test the new components.

Good luck.

GTOreturns · Feb 26, 2007

This is my 3rd radiator. The 1st replacement I damage while installing it. I forced it in the bottom clips and it damaged the bottom rows! You mite wanna check that!

1991vert · Feb 26, 2007

i did what GTO said he did to the first one. i smeared some j.b. weld on it and was good to go! after using a few gallons of coolant at $9.99!!!!!

86bluecobra · Feb 27, 2007

hope it is an easy fix. good to hear you found the problem.

Strype · Feb 27, 2007

HA!!!

It seems that the 95 Taurus fan is the culprit. I used 4 fasteners and aluminum strips to mount it. The fasteners are the push through type. The foam pad used to insulate one of them is gone, and it was left to torque against the radiator. That in turn has caused a leak where this particular fastener is. I called a friend and he had the same problem last summer.

Sooooo... Somebody said jb weld? I heard the "Bars Leaks" stuff works but is bad for the system

Thanks guys for all the help

Busted07 · Feb 27, 2007

Dont use any internal stop leak. Youll end up with more problems than you started with. You can go the JB weld route, or take it somewhere and have them tig weld it. If thats not an option right now, i would just either JB weld it, or get some high heat epoxy. I have seen more stuff go wrong with peoples cars from using that stop leak. Thermostat sticking open, clogging water jackets etc...

Strype · Feb 27, 2007

FarBeyondDriven said:
Dont use any internal stop leak. Youll end up with more problems than you started with. You can go the JB weld route, or take it somewhere and have them tig weld it. If thats not an option right now, i would just either JB weld it, or get some high heat epoxy. I have seen more stuff go wrong with peoples cars from using that stop leak. Thermostat sticking open, clogging water jackets etc...

Wow... I will NOT be using that stuff then

Busted07 · Feb 27, 2007

Strype said:
Wow... I will NOT be using that stuff then

The only time i would ever recommend it is if youre trying to trade the car in real quick and dont have time to fix it right

GTOreturns · Feb 27, 2007

Ahhhhh buy a new one you cheap bastid!!!

Dear God Why? OVERHEATING AGAIN!

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