Did anyone else have IAC failure shortly after doing the copper cap mod

My IAC failed about 1K after doing this...so no more copper plug for me!

To be honest it doesn't seem healthy to my engine and I would really like to take it out. But I tried that once, and that sucked. I have gotten so used to quick shifts with my shifter and RPM drop combined that when I went back to stock I drove like crap.

But the engine can idle lower than I'd like, and can hit nasty lows with A/C and defroster. When started up, the engine is suppose to warm itself with a higher idle at around 1000-1100 RPM in cold weather (like now, for me) and I'm finding myself doing that manually by adding a little gas. When I engine brake there is a significant increase in the amount of drivetrain slack it seems and it bounces around even more than it already does. I would guess to attribute that to the lower idle power which would otherwise smooth that out.

And it sounds like it's murdering my A/C clutch, but luckily I won't need that for a while.

Since the IAC is electronic, I was wondering if someone could put a little code in a tuner somewhere so we can safely adjust this.

i've got like 40k on mine w/ the copper cap

FalconGuy016 said:

When I engine brake there is a significant increase in the amount of drivetrain slack it seems and it bounces around even more than it already does. I would guess to attribute that to the lower idle power which would otherwise smooth that out.

Since the IAC is electronic, I was wondering if someone could put a little code in a tuner somewhere so we can safely adjust this.

Click to expand...

WTF, "Engine brake", what is it a Mac truck?

stang96blkgt said:

WTF, "Engine brake", what is it a Mac truck?

Click to expand...

You're thinking of a jake brake.

Engine braking is using the natural resistance of the engine to rev and gearing down to decelerate.