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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Did I get screwed? (tie rods)

  • Thread starter Thread starter xpeteyjtx
  • Start date Start date May 11, 2006
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RaceDvr50

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Jul 26, 2005
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May 19, 2006
#41
  • May 19, 2006
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I have had full access to a shop for years and when it comes down to it it's not worth the effort to change the bushings and ball joints since the parts price of all of the parts for both sides is likely over $100 and then the time and effort to change them, if you don't damage anything. While a new factory pair of arms is under $200 and you just slap them in. Only takes a couple of hours that way.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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Taunton, MA
May 19, 2006
#42
  • May 19, 2006
  • #42
Well then I guess I wont bother with the bushings or the control arms for now... I will just do struts/shocks and springs.

I went to the shop today, and he assured me that they were new. He put the car on the lift and showed me that the wheels were tight and showed how he greased the fittings. He did all this because he wanted me to feel comfortable at his shop. Told me that one of them was ordered from NAPA and the other was ordered from somewhere else. So thats what happened, I just left after that... and learned my lesson. thanks guys
 

smokin91'

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#43
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2000xp8 said:
I'm not really sure, but i do know that some people plain old can't get the bushings out, period.
I guess you can try.

And having them stripped and repainted, will go way beyond the cost of new ones.
Click to expand...

If thats the case then just have your NEW ball joints pressed out of your old A-Arms and pressed into the new ones.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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May 19, 2006
#44
  • May 19, 2006
  • #44
smokin91' said:
If thats the case then just have your NEW ball joints pressed out of your old A-Arms and pressed into the new ones.
Click to expand...
new ones come with new ball joints in them.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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#45
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But smokin, every control arm that I have ever seen already comes with new ball joints, that is why I dont think buying new control arms will be a good move for me (I will have two extra ball joints hanging around)
 

smokin91'

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#46
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You could always sell the ball joints on ebay.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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#47
  • May 19, 2006
  • #47
Thats true

So I think I decided on a kit, how does this look?
Shocks/Struts and Springs

Do I need new quad shocks??

Anything else you guys suggest?
 

RaceDvr50

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#48
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Not a bad option but not really a stellar price as a spring kit can be had for about $125 so they are hitting you for $275 for the shocks and struts which is probably a pretty average deal but it is all good stuff so if you don't want to go hunting for a better deal I wouldn't hesitate to put it in my ride. Wouldn't hurt to do the quads but you can drop them down and see how they feel, if they aren't leaking you probably don't need to do them.
 

2000xp8

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May 19, 2006
#49
  • May 19, 2006
  • #49
$125 for springs? Not sure what kind you are getting for that price.

That price is fair, not sure which eibach kit the are giving you though.
Best for a normally driven car would be the eibach pro lowering kit. NOT the sportline kit.

Consider these other items while you have the car apart
sway bar endlinks (you may need them anyway, because alot of time the stockers break apart when removing them)
Energy suspension isolator kits for the front and rear. They make a world in difference in ride quality.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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#50
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  • #50
Im pretty sure its the pro-kit, because the sportline coils are usually red

Hey 2000xp8, I will take your word for the isolators, Im going to order the front and rear energy suspension isolators from autozone, thanks a lot
 

2000xp8

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#51
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cross reference the part numbers, because pictures don't always match what you get.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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#52
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Should I get offset rack bushings? Are these bushings easy to install? Or are they like the control arm bushings you guys were talking about?
 
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xpeteyjtx

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#53
  • May 19, 2006
  • #53
I just looked at the Eibach catalog and they don't offer the sportline package for fox 5.0 verts, only the pro-kit.
 

2000xp8

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#54
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I used offset rack bushings on my car, but did not on any of the other cars i put the pro lowering kit in.
IMO, they just aren't necessary.
I'd also be aware that you have what seems to be around a 25% chance you'll need CC plates. I needed them, but the other cars i worked on, did not, to get a proper alignment.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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#55
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Does anyone else have opinions on offset bushings and CC plates? According to Eibach, the front will be dropped 1.2 and the rear will be dropped 1 inch. Thanks for the help again.
 

RaceDvr50

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#56
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Check out this link and read what they have to say about offset bushings

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_86&products_id=466

As far as the $125 for springs I guess I get good prices on stuff. I can get progressive rate factory lowering springs or Eibach for that much.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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#57
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Ok, so since I have a factor K-member, I will not need the bushings... I still don't know about the CC plates though.
 

RaceDvr50

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May 30, 2006
#58
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CC Plates

It's a little bit of a crap shoot, they might be able to adjust it enough without them but if you do put them in they will definately be able to adjust it in. Maybe you could talk a good shop into taking a look at it and letting you know if they think you need them or not and let them know that either way they won't be selling you the parts or installing them so they don't say yes just to sell you parts or labor.
 
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xpeteyjtx

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May 30, 2006
#59
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Hey RaceDvr50, I am going to install the springs/shocks within the next couple of days... I have ordered urethane strut mounts and urethane spring isolators, so the drop will be slightly less than the advertised (1.2/1). I will then take it to be aligned and if there are problems, I will order the CC plates.
 
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