I wouldn't think so....I have never heard anyting about that and all the guys on here who have gone from auto to manual have never said anything about this.....and when you buy a new or aftermerket dizzy they are not auto or manual specific
wow im just tring to narrow my problems down i have a bad miss at 4000. i got the timing done. i switch out motors and put a 91 motor in it. and the 91 motor was from an auto car. vacuum lines good, plug, wires cap and rotor all new. theres someting loose somewhere just havent found it yet. it happens when i go over bumps and hit about 4000 grand or more, its sputters and almost lose power then it corrects its self. who knows damn fords
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.