Differential question

2fast4u770

Active Member
Jan 16, 2011
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Anyone running any of these differentials?
Ford performance traction lok
Yukon duragrip
Torsen T-2
Pros-cons and what’s the best one you think? I’m running the ford performance but was wondering if it will hold any real power.
 
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Seen claims of the track lok being good to around 700hp, but I truly don't think it would last at that level with regular abuse.

I have been running one for about 7 years on a 331 with about 100 passes on it.

Joe
 
Seen claims of the track lok being good to around 700hp, but I truly don't think it would last at that level with regular abuse.

I have been running one for about 7 years on a 331 with about 100 passes on it.

Joe
So what’s the pros to the T2 not having springs or clutch. Better torque I’m guessing or no maintenance
 
You can also read dangerous, and extremely hard on every part of the drive train after the engine.

The purpose of clutches in a traction loc differential is to be tight enough hold both axles in a coupled state when driving straight, but still be able to slip, or uncouple when turning or going around a corner. Eliminate that necessity with a directly locked diff like a welded rear, or a spool, and you'll have an accident waiting to happen.

Help one of your friends at the track that has a spool and a set of slicks push his car around a corner, or try to turn the car from a stop and push it......it don't go. Drive the car on the street with a spool and a set of drag radials, or slicks and turn a corner...You'll be thinking to yourself " that can't be good" when you hear all of the popping, clanking and screeching noises made by the rear, driveshaft, and the tires, as they fight to help that inside tire spin at a different speed than the outside tire.

Then,...for the absolute best experience anybody can have in a car while driving......drive the car in the rain with a locked rear on a twisty road.

Better have an up to date AAA account.

I'm speaking from experience...I've had several street/strip cars that were built more for the strip that were driven there on the street..it's just another compromise that you'll make that will guarantee that there'll be a trailer, and a gutted interior in your cars future.
 
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You can also read dangerous, and extremely hard on every part of the drive train after the engine.

The purpose of clutches in a traction loc differential is to be tight enough hold both axles in a coupled state when driving straight, but still be able to slip, or uncouple when turning or going around a corner. Eliminate that necessity with a directly locked diff like a welded rear, or a spool, and you'll have an accident waiting to happen.

Help one of your friends at the track that has a spool and a set of slicks push his car around a corner, or try to turn the car from a stop and push it......it don't go. Drive the car on the street with a spool and a set of drag radials, or slicks and turn a corner...You'll be thinking to yourself " that can't be good" when you hear all of the popping, clanking and screeching noises made by the rear, driveshaft, and the tires, as they fight to help that inside tire spin at a different speed than the outside tire.

Then,...for the absolute best experience anybody can have in a car while driving......drive the car in the rain with a locked rear on a twisty road.

Better have an up to date AAA account.

I'm speaking from experience...I've had several street/strip cars that were built more for the strip that were driven there on the street..it's just another compromise that you'll make that will guarantee that there'll be a trailer, and a gutted interior in your cars future.

Yea that all makes 100% sense, so do you think with the T2 not having clutches and spring it will kinda have the same effects as a spool?
 
The T2 is more of a street/road race diff. Will work at the drag strip but not well if your making a bunch of power. It is nothing like a spool, it is almost the opposite. I had one in my 92 and have one waiting to go in my 94. It allows more power to go to the wheel with more traction. I think a standard T2 will to a 33/66 split while the T2R will do 20/80. That is 33% of power to one wheel and 66% to the other. I have had only the T2 and like it a lot. Again if you are building a drag car probably not the diff for your build.
 
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Didn’t want to start a new thread but still a rear end question. Are any of y’all running c clip eliminators? If so how do you like them? Do you have to cute the axle tube? Or is getting 9” ford housing Ends better???
 
Didn’t want to start a new thread but still a rear end question. Are any of y’all running c clip eliminators? If so how do you like them? Do you have to cute the axle tube? Or is getting 9” ford housing Ends better???

You don't have to put 9" ends on. Most people do that when the rear has been shortened. FYI a long pipe or fence pole can be used to " press " the bearing on. Place a block of wood under the axle flange inside where the studs are. Lubricate the axles bearing surface with pb blaster or wd40. Slide the outer bearing flange and bearing down the axle. With the axle standing up on the block place the pipe over the axle. Take another wood block and place it at the end of the pipe and tap it with a mallet.


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