When I first start my car and its cold it runs fine but after it warms up it wants to backfire pulling away from stop signs and rolling down the road the power isn’t smooth, it feels almost like an intermittent miss. I checked the plug wires and they are fine and the o2's are new. A buddy of mine that races circle track said that it could be timing a vacuum leak then he mentioned a dirty egr valve. What's the best way to clean the egr?
dirty egr valve?
- Thread starter aaros
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bloopbloob
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+1 on dumping the codes.
but if it is the egr valve, just unbolt it (2 bolts) and give it a good cleaning with parts cleaner. take it apart (3 nuts on the back) and only clean the main housing. make sure the pintle valve is clean, and seating properly. they can get full of carbon deposits. you should also check to see if it holds vacuum, as you may have a leak in the rubber diaphragm if cleaning doesn't solve it.
but if it is the egr valve, just unbolt it (2 bolts) and give it a good cleaning with parts cleaner. take it apart (3 nuts on the back) and only clean the main housing. make sure the pintle valve is clean, and seating properly. they can get full of carbon deposits. you should also check to see if it holds vacuum, as you may have a leak in the rubber diaphragm if cleaning doesn't solve it.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
i took it apart today and cleaned it, drove the car for a bit then had to put it back in storage ( liq. salt on the roads, yuk) it seemed to do better. when the weather gets better im going to change the plugs and check the connections on the o2's. buddy of mine has a snap-on 'puter ill pull the codes and see whats up. last time i did it gave me a trouble code for the egr but i just blew it off, that was a few years ago. thanks for the help, guys! 
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