I finally got my 4cyl conversion to the chasis dyno today. Everything was changed on the car fuel lines, aftermarket pump etc. It is a built 306 11.1 compression, windsor jr cast iron heads, GT 40 intake, X cam, 24lbs injectors and calibrated maf, Shorty headers, no cats, flowmasters, accufab 75mm tb, stock computer. The car has a tremec 3550 and 4.10 gears. The car made 248 rwhp at 5100 rpm and 290 ftlbs. The timing was set a 16 degrees by mistake, I meant to be at 14. We backed it to 14, and it made less power, went back to 16, and then 17 and thats when the power peaked. Should I be happy with these numbers? The dyno guy said he will play with the fuel pressure and get an accurate a/f but its not gonna make a huge difference. The dyno was a land/sea dyno, which I think is simular to a superflo or a mustang dyno. Is there more room for more power here?
Disapointed with my dyno #'s should I be?
- Thread starter NewToFord
- Start date
I just plugged your combo into my desk top dyno....before anyone shoots me here, I know that just it isn't entirely accurate.....but, it was 2hp off my old combo and 15 hp off my father-n-laws combo, so it will get you close. For some reason the torque numbers are always way over inflated.
Anyways, back on topic.....plugging it in and doing a 15% drivetrain loss, it looks like you should be 300+ on the rear wheels.
My old iron gt40 headed, gt40 intake, tfs 1 cam with 9.0:1 compression made 270 rwhp....so something is not right.
Let us know what you find out. Good luck with it.
Anyways, back on topic.....plugging it in and doing a 15% drivetrain loss, it looks like you should be 300+ on the rear wheels.
My old iron gt40 headed, gt40 intake, tfs 1 cam with 9.0:1 compression made 270 rwhp....so something is not right.
Let us know what you find out. Good luck with it.
Kdubslugga
Active Member
I wouldnt be happy. 11.1 compression with heads cam and intake and not even 250? Doesnt seem right at all. You should be over 300
Kdubslugga
Active Member
Saw this over on the corral. Some guys set up was..306, 10:1
home ported Windsor Jr alums
home ported Professional products ripoff air-gap
670 street avenger with the choke horn milled off
1 5/8 longtubes, 2.5" exhaust
t5
made 300rwhp and 312rwtq
home ported Windsor Jr alums
home ported Professional products ripoff air-gap
670 street avenger with the choke horn milled off
1 5/8 longtubes, 2.5" exhaust
t5
made 300rwhp and 312rwtq
I bought the longblock used. It did come out of a running car, although I am not sure how much hp it made. I did a compression test before the motor was installed. The codes I have pulled all have to do with the smog pump, and the tab sensors etc. The car has trouble idleing when it is cold, and sometimes after driving around, but the car has no hesitation under driving conditions. I think the idle problem may be the tps voltage or the iac valve. So being that I bought the motor used, I am not sure if the cam was installed correctly. Could the distributor be installed wrong? How could I do that? Thanks for the help.
I agree that dyno numbers don't always equal fast...but you should be making more power than that. Are you sure you bought what you think you bought? If the cam was installed incorrectly, or if the distributor was off, then your valve events and timing events would be off, which hurts performance. Another thing, check your valves. If you did a compression test, this would probably point out a leaking valve, but, if you have the wrong size pushrods or if they are pedestal mount and have the wrong shimming, then they could be stay stuck open causing you to loose power.
Maryland Stang
Active Member
Is it a bone stock GT40 intake? The lower on those flow more than the Mustang lower but less than most of the aftermarket intakes available today. You have 11:1 compression and the Windsor Jr heads have way more potential than the GT40 lower intake will allow. The .500" intake flow on the Windsor Jr is 236 CFM and the flow on a stock GT40 is 185 CFM at .500". The compression is wanting more flow, the heads are wanting more flow and the cam probably wants more flow.
Change the intake, degree the cam and go through all of the electrical connectors and make 100% sure that they are getting the proper connections. Make sure all of the grounds are clean and connecting properly. I wouldn't be too concerned with the TPS voltage unless it is way, way off. The computer baselines to the voltage of the TPS every time it's turned on.
Change the intake, degree the cam and go through all of the electrical connectors and make 100% sure that they are getting the proper connections. Make sure all of the grounds are clean and connecting properly. I wouldn't be too concerned with the TPS voltage unless it is way, way off. The computer baselines to the voltage of the TPS every time it's turned on.
Yes it is the stock Ford Racing GT40 intake. I have the cast iron windsor jr heads. Are these the same that you are talking about? What intake would you recomend? Thanks
Kdubslugga
Active Member
Not really. I used to run 16 degrees all the time. Did your tuner have a wideband hooked up to your car? A few degrees of timing isnt gonna knock your horsepower down by 60 HP.
Maryland Stang
Active Member
Yes, those are the ones I'm talking about.
I would go with something like the Edelbrock Performer RPM II or the Trick Flow Track Heat with those heads.
If that kind of money is a problem you should send the lower GT40 to TMoss and have him port it. He can get you about 30 or 40 more HP out of that lower.
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