Disc Brake Clearance / Wheel Bearing

9

97fxdwg

New Member

May 7, 2004

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May 12, 2004

#1

• May 12, 2004

• #1

I'm new to working on my own brakes, (changing from drum to disc up front on a 68 302 coupe), so this may sound stupid - Here goes my 2 part question:

1 - I replaced the spindle and when putting together the wheel, when the inner grease retainer was hammered (gently) in as far as it would go, the inner bearing cone and roller was able to move around. Couldn't flip/flop or anything of course, but did it "set" into place after the new rotor is torqued into place? Everything looks fine, the outer bearing, washer, nut, lock nut and cotter pin all looked and felt perfect when installed.

2 - After I assembled and then went to install the discs, there was basically ZERO clearance between the disc shoes and the rotor. I can rotate the wheel but it takes a bit of effort - not free wheeling in other words. After I bleed the master cylinder and fill the brake lines, then bleed them, will the "moveable" shoe retract some and give a little clearance?

Thanks for "Bearing" with me.

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

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109

Austin TX

May 12, 2004

#2

• May 12, 2004

• #2

1.) Torque the bearing retainer nut to the exact specs and you'll be fine assuming the bearings were the correct part. If you are just worried about the pre-assembling slop then don't worry. The slop gets taken up by the retaining nut.

2.) Yes. Do a THOROUGH bleed job though, just to make sure there is no air in the lines at all.

 

9

97fxdwg

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May 7, 2004

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May 12, 2004

#3

• May 12, 2004

• #3

Thanks for the help, I'll undoubtedly have more stupid questions as I get further into this quest.

 

65 fastback

Founding Member

Mar 17, 2002

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Northern VA

May 12, 2004

#4

• May 12, 2004

• #4

I would double check your bearing for the correct size. Ford used two different size spindles (I believe starting in '69 they went to a larger size). Also, I'm not sure but maybe someone else on the board knows if the disc and drum spindles are the same.

Tim

 

bud4660

Founding Member

Apr 14, 2002

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Mesquite, Tx

May 12, 2004

#5

• May 12, 2004

• #5

If I understand all the drum to disk stuff. As long as you have V8 spindles the rotors will fit and work. The 1967's had a different size spindle then the 68-69's did. Bearings are different size. So is the calipers. Went from a 4 piston to a single piston design.
Bud

 

9

97fxdwg

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May 7, 2004

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May 12, 2004

#6

• May 12, 2004

• #6

All of the stuff came in the form of a box of new parts from a reputable Mustang shop in my locale, but I think I've asked them so many questions that my inquiry bank is running low. Spindles are brand new, rotors too, it just seemed weird that the inner bearings weren't held firmly in place by the grease retainer. Live and learn.


Thanks for the assist.

 

A

akd67

Banned

Apr 6, 2003

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Small Town Illinois

May 12, 2004

#7

• May 12, 2004

• #7

Just for my clarity you arent talking about the race(smooth steel sleeve) that the bearing rollers face are you? If thats loose you have a problem. The grease seal goes on the back of the hub, races go inside of the hub. If I misunderstood I apoligize.

 

9

97fxdwg

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May 7, 2004

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May 12, 2004

#8

• May 12, 2004

• #8

Nope, the race is in there, tight as hell, then the bearing, greased and loose (which was my original concern), then the grease retainer. But thanks for givin' a damn.

 

A

akd67

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Apr 6, 2003

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Small Town Illinois

May 12, 2004

#9

• May 12, 2004

• #9

Youre welcome.

 

6

6strings

New Member

May 26, 2003

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Windsor,CT

May 12, 2004

#10

• May 12, 2004

• #10

I'm doing the same conversion on my '65 fastback using an SSB kit. It sounds like you are there - as long as the rotors are firmly seated on the spindle and the locknut is on you just have to torque the retaing nut to spec. I torqued to spec, backed off to loose and torqued to spec again to be sure bearings are seated. One note - do final torque of nut to low side of the spec, better loose than to tight for the bearings.
The disk brakes are a "drag" system and you won't be able to spin the wheel feely as you could with the drum brake.
I'm a bit of a newbie myself and I just recently learned this stuff so I hope it helps a bit.
Enjoy!

 

bud4660

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Apr 14, 2002

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Mesquite, Tx

May 12, 2004

#11

• May 12, 2004

• #11

97fxdwg said:

Nope, the race is in there, tight as hell, then the bearing, greased and loose (which was my original concern), then the grease retainer. But thanks for givin' a damn.

Click to expand...

If you talking about slack in the bearing once you have installed the seal. The back bearing will move off the race and toward the seal. If I remember right it seems like a 1/4" or so. That is normal. When you slide the rotor on the spindle the tapered part will tighten the bearing into the race. The seal will ride on the big ridge next to the dust shield to help keep grease from coming out. Set the rotor on the spindle and run the nut up against the outer bearing and see if you can wiggle the rotor side to side. If not, then you should be fine. If you can then the bearings are the wrong size for the spindle. If you ordered a complete kit then I would think your ok there too.
Bud

 

9

97fxdwg

New Member

May 7, 2004

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May 13, 2004

#12

• May 13, 2004

• #12

That 1/4" to 1/2" was what was bothering me. No slop in the rotor at all. Thanks!