Distributor - Hard to remove/HARDER to install?!

The Iceman · Aug 22, 2004

Well I pulled the original 200 out of my '65 and have the rebuilt one all set to go in, however the distributor does not want to go in....

To get the other distributor OUT of the rebuilt engine, I needed to lightly hammer it out (I know thats not supposed to happen), and now I cant get the new distributor INTO the engine.

Ive been playing around with it for an hour and still am having problems

thanks for anyones help!

Cdaniel · Aug 22, 2004

Keep at it, it will drop. You'll probably have to bump the starter a bunch of times to do it, One of those remote start buttons comes in real handy for this. I just recently did the same thing and thought it would never go back in. It's all about getting the hex socket on the end of the dist shaft to mate with the oil pump drive shaft. It must be right on before it will go in.

The Iceman · Aug 22, 2004

Thanks, thats what I was thinking - its just such a pain in my _$$!!!!
Hopefully it will drop in...

Ozsum2 · Aug 22, 2004

DON'T BUMP THE STARTER THOUGH!!! Use a break over bar on the crank pulley if you have to, or remember that the dist teeth are curved so to speak, and the dist has to sort of rotate into the meshing teeth. Or you could just rotate the rotor to get things lined up.

Cdaniel · Aug 22, 2004

Ozsum2 said:
DON'T BUMP THE STARTER THOUGH!!! Use a break over bar on the crank pulley if you have to, or remember that the dist teeth are curved so to speak, and the dist has to sort of rotate into the meshing teeth. Or you could just rotate the rotor to get things lined up.

Why not use the starter? How is human-mechanical imparted rotating motion different than electro-mechanical?

Ozsum2 · Aug 22, 2004

Cdaniel said:
Why not use the starter? How is human-mechanical imparted rotating motion different than electro-mechanical?

With human power, you have control. By bumping the starter, you don't and you won't be in time if it moves too much.

Ozsum2 · Aug 22, 2004

Cdaniel said:
Keep at it, it will drop. You'll probably have to bump the starter a bunch of times to do it, One of those remote start buttons comes in real handy for this. I just recently did the same thing and thought it would never go back in. It's all about getting the hex socket on the end of the dist shaft to mate with the oil pump drive shaft. It must be right on before it will go in.

By turning over the engine, how is he suposed to keep it in time?

Cdaniel · Aug 22, 2004

Ozsum2 said:
By turning over the engine, how is he suposed to keep it in time?

The dist will drop in far enough to engage the teeth bofore the oil pump shaft comes into play. Same thing by hand or not. I agree control and finess is an issue but you won't jump a tooth. Maybe if you don't hold it down while rotating the engine. That's why, unless you have a helper it's real difficult to turn an engine by hand while at the same time pushing on the dist to get to engage the hex shaft. Especially with the amount of "finess" seemed to be require to get a 289 to accept the dist. They seem to require some amount of downward force all the way in.

Ozsum2 · Aug 22, 2004

Cdaniel said:
The dist will drop in far enough to engage the teeth bofore the oil pump shaft comes into play. Same thing by hand or not. I agree control and finess is an issue but you won't jump a tooth. Maybe if you don't hold it down while rotating the engine. That's why, unless you have a helper it's real difficult to turn an engine by hand while at the same time pushing on the dist to get to engage the hex shaft. Especially with the amount of "finess" seemed to be require to get a 289 to accept the dist. They seem to require some amount of downward force all the way in.

I don't have a problem with 289 distributors. I just like to be in control, and not have somthing chew up the oil pump shaft.

pabear89 · Aug 22, 2004

Cdaniel said:
The dist will drop in far enough to engage the teeth bofore the oil pump shaft comes into play. Same thing by hand or not. I agree control and finess is an issue but you won't jump a tooth. Maybe if you don't hold it down while rotating the engine. That's why, unless you have a helper it's real difficult to turn an engine by hand while at the same time pushing on the dist to get to engage the hex shaft. Especially with the amount of "finess" seemed to be require to get a 289 to accept the dist. They seem to require some amount of downward force all the way in.

But don't forget to back the rotor a couple of teeth so when it drops in it lines up with the correct point to allow you to move the dist to time it and not have the housing come in contact with any thing. JMO

PB

Cdaniel · Aug 22, 2004

pabear89 said:
But don't forget to back the rotor a couple of teeth so when it drops in it lines up with the correct point to allow you to move the dist to time it and not have the housing come in contact with any thing. JMO

PB

And I'll 2nd that!

Cdaniel · Aug 22, 2004

Ozsum2 said:
I don't have a problem with 289 distributors. I just like to be in control, and not have somthing chew up the oil pump shaft.

Ah yes, control. We all want to believe we're in control All I hope for is keeping Murphy out of my garage most of the time

As for the 289, you'll have to pardon the Old Chevy guy here. This is my 2nd Ford and my 1st was when I was 16, young and stupid. My Chevies have a tounge in groove oil pump drive, no problems.

Don't hate me now, all brands have their dubious "engineering innovations"

The Iceman · Aug 22, 2004

thanks guys, finally got it in, but with much more effort than I would have ever wanted

Distributor - Hard to remove/HARDER to install?!

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