Distributor problems

The only condensor check I know of is to see if it's shorted to the casing.
(Continuity between wire terminal and case=shorted=junk). This would cause the engine to die/not start as there would be no primary ignition voltage developed. I do know that if the condensor is failing in it's capacitance cabability,(wearing out), the contacts on the points will be subjected to the induced voltage collapse of the primary coil windings without any cushioning from the condensor. They will wear much faster.
As far as the dual point- check to see if the points spring back closed with sufficient tension when you open them slightly. Don't manually open them too far, or the spring may loose it's tension. A weak spring may cause the point contacts to "float" as it's known, and this would lead to a irratic ignition spark-or stumble and break-up as you mentioned.
Check to ensure the mechanical advance plate operates freely through it's range of motion, and that the cam lobe on the shaft is in good condition and not worn or loose.
The stainless screws will be less prone to corrosion from ozone, and other than that they look shiny.
I always personally thought dual points were a little tricky to KEEP set up correctly. Use a good dwell meter.
Is there a reason you prefer the dual point distributor over a solid state primary ignition trigger? Just curious.
They used to be the hot set-up years ago before solid state, as you could set the advance points to trigger your ignition spark a few degrees advanced and take full advantage of a slower burning, higher octane fuel in high compression engines.

when I do set mine, I disconnect one side and set it at 24-26 degrees, then do the other.
when you say 32 total is that 16 per side?
that may be why your flash burning the points.

i'd say it's worth a try.