Does this make sense? O2 sensor related.

[TrophyHead]

Hi guys, I replaced my passenger side O2 sensor. Cause I broke it off. I didnt touch the drivers side O2 sensor.

Now my driverside tailpipe is smoking alot more than my passenger side. Headgaskets seem good because I am not overheating. Car is idling fine at 900 RPM. No vac leaks. Do you think if I replace the other O2 sensor my exaust will clear up? What else do you think could cause this? Thanks guys.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Look for a 41/91 code in the dump - that says your O2 sensors are having problems, you have a vacuum leak or other air/fuel ratio management problem.