Does this sound like a good combo?

68stang351 · Feb 6, 2010

So far this is what I have.
69 351w
Twisted Wedge heads 2.02/1.60 (I think they're 170cc, not sure)
1.6 Roller rockers
Performer RPM Intake
Edelbrock 600 Carb (will try to put a larger Holley on soon)

I need a cam kit, Comp's CamQuest recommended this:
XE284H (2300-6500)
Duration @ .050 I=240 E=246
Duration seat to seat I=284 E=296
Lift .541/.544

This is for my 68 Coupe with a T5, 3.50's, SFC's, 90/10's in front, with 275/50 M/T drag radials on Pro Star big and litttles. Caltracs hopefully to come soon, but for now only a set of traction bars.

I've got everything except for the cam kit, that's what they are recommending for me, does that sound okay?

Thanks.

woodsnake · Feb 6, 2010

My free opinion is, that you will have too much motor, for those gears and transmission. And, for that matter, not enough intake or carb.

I'm running a .030 over 289 with the performer RPM cam and air gap dual quad intake.

I have a T5 out of a 95 Mustang, and am running a 3.50 gear. I think my 68 Cougar will be a lot happier with a 3.73 in the rear. I don't do a lot of (none) "burnouts" with the car. Spirited driving, you bet!

68stang351 · Feb 8, 2010

Well I just realized that the springs on my heads are for .540 max lift, so it's either shell out another 80 or 90$ for new springs or go with this cam.

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,500-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 244
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 244
Duration at 050 inch Lift 244 int./244 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 292
Advertised Exhaust Duration 292
Advertised Duration 292 int./292 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.518 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.518 in.

I want something that will take full advantage of my mods down the road (bigger carb, maybe a Vic. Jr intake), but I'm not sure if this one is going to be a better choice than my first one.

woodsnake · Feb 9, 2010

I think that if your mustang runs already, I would save up a few more bucks before you start spending any money.
That cam will be a bit more street able, but again, that's more motor than the trans will like. And, you will end up wanting more gear. Plus, the low profile intake and smallish carb will hold you back.

If the hundred bucks for a new set of springs makes you worry, you definitely need to get some more money in the bank first. Believe me, I understand wanting to get it done, but this stuff cost money! And it always costs about twice what you pencil out.
Plus you are going to need to measure for correct push rod length, and buy those as well!

68RCodeConv · Feb 9, 2010

I've got a 347 with Dart Pro 1 heads, etc. 750 Edelbrock carb. T5 with 3.89 rear gears.

First cam was a solid roller. 240/246, 108 LSA .570 lift. It was awful on the street. Would not idle below 1000 rpm, did not smooth out until 2000 rpm, didn't make any power below 3000 rpm. I hated it.

Changed to a 236/236, 109 LSA, .570 lift. I love it. Idles at 750, pulls 5th gear at 1500 rpm, revs to 6500 no problems.

htwheelz67 · Feb 9, 2010

if its a street car and driven regulaly keep the cam in the 220-230 duration @0.50, that cam is more of a race/pro street type cam and if you want to take advantage of it you will need bigger heads and a bottom end that will easilly see 7000+ RPM.

Does this sound like a good combo?

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