DOH! I think I might have #@!*...

Its ok to adjust the valves cold.
Heck, how do you think Ford sets them from the factory?

They will probably need to be readjusted once warmed up of course.

~ Exhaust open, intake closed ~
Easiest way to remember when to adjust a valve. It doesn't matter which cylinder you start with too boot. When an exhaust valve begins to open, adjust the intake valve for that cylinder. When an intake valve starts to close, adjust the exhaust valve for that cylinder. Repeat the process for all 8 cylinders.

The motor does not need to be at TDC using my method. You can adjust any cylinder first, and continue to adjust in any order, assuming you do the Exhaust open, intake closed method.

As for the actual adjustment.
Totally back the rocker arm off the valve.
That will let the lifter pump up (wait 10 seconds +/-)
Now begin to tighten the valve while spinning the pushrod.
When you feel a slight resistence, tighten the valve 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

The objective is to have the lifter off the lobe of the cam to take up the slack in the lifter, pushrod, rocker assembly. When the exhaust just starts to open, you can be darned sure that the intake will be closed on that cylinder. When the intake starts to close, you can be certain the exhaust has finished closing as well.

you don't have to adjust the lifters while hot with hydraulic lifters, my method is easier than 2bav's in that it takes fewer moves in rotating the crank ( 8--1/4 turns total after starting the sequence) Just make sure that #1 is at TDC on the firing stroke when starting, if it's so, then rotating the crank 90 degrees for each cylinder in turn will put the rest at TDC for their turn. If the cylinder is at TDC on the firing stroke, then both valves will be closed and on the base circle of the lobe when they're set. An easy way to tell you've rotated the crank 90 degrees ( 1/4 turn) is to either mark the balancer before starting ( 4 equal marks around the circumference) or if you have a later 4 bolt balancer, like mine, you just align the casting bosses for the balancer bolts (the ones that retain the pulleys, there's 4 of them) with the timing pointer. I also turn the rocker adjuster nut 3/4 turn after the pushrod contacts the rocker.

Would it be silly to ask at this point if you have adjustable rockers?

If you have positive stop studs, you just torque the nuts to 20 ft lbs.

Max Power said:

Would it be silly to ask at this point if you have adjustable rockers?

If you have positive stop studs, you just torque the nuts to 20 ft lbs.

Click to expand...

Good question, but on his previous thread on this subject, he stated that he had a 65-289 that he'd just had rebuilt. So I'm assuming, that the motor he has, has had nothing else swapped into his car by any previous owner in the last 30 something years. Always pays to be sure though,as to what exact parts are there to avoid mistakes.