Door Actuators

pull your door face plate thing off and look in there and see if there's a little motor looking thing that connects to the rod that the door lock pushes down...it's a cyclindrical looking thing...they go bad and they are not fun to put in, just so you know...

look up Jrichker's site. he did a nice write up on the retrofit - while you are not necessarily doing that, he has some nice photos that might help you. good luck.

any woes about the damn door locks or windows ask me... hissin knows i had a helluva a time with my locks and windows but now....they both work. take the panel off the door. look in the bottom right and there should be a black thing that has a little silver arm pointing straigt up in the air... or locate the rivet on the outside of the door where the door isnt visible when closed. the rivet should be about in the middle of the little panel. then rach around by where the rivet would go throught the metal and feel if there is an object there. any more help or if i have confused the ***** out of you(which i am guessing i have) just pm me

Zeus, you should have a web site devoted to the locks and window wiring by now.

i thought this would get more responses by now...so i will toss out what i think i know.

the actuator is held in place with a plastic or metal U shaped bracket. there are rubber sleeves that are between the actuator's little arms and the bracket (the rubber presses the two parts together).

one normally CAREFULLY levers the actuator out of the U-shaped bracket. if you have a plastic one, be prepared to break it (ahhh, ahem, speaking from experience - the brittle plastic let go before the sticky rubber).

The U shaped part is held on with a snap ring (easily removed if the actuator is already removed). this releases the U bracket from the rivet through the door.

the lock/unlock rod linkage hooks into something er-other in the lock mechanism. this is where i think Jrichker's write up would really help. IIRC, he has pics of all that.

im not sure what you are troubleshooting. if the actuators are dead, you might want to check the two wires that go to the actuators (for continuity). also make sure the ground wire is bolted in (it is normally dead center on the inner door skin).

there are lock connectors in the top of the drivers kick panel, if you need to look at wiring further (that is a good place to check continuity).

that is what comes to mind. if you are more specific, i know Zeus or myself (and everyone else) will have some ideas. good luck.

hey where did you get your wire connectors. i spent hours trying to soulder my wires to the terminals i would have killed for some new connectors. oh well they work now

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $4. Fix one side for $17, do both sides for only $23. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.