Door lock actuators....aaarrrrggghhhh!!!

1

1996Z15

New Member

Apr 17, 2005

6

0

0

So. New Jersey

Jan 2, 2008

#1

• Jan 2, 2008

• #1

My door actuator on my driver's side door seems to be shot....again! I think this will be the third actuator that I have had installed in 3 or 4 years; is that normal?

Can I just disconnect the actuator and make it a manual lock door and eliminate the actuator entirely? I hate to sound cheap but, these friggin' things aren't cheap to have installed and, for some reason, they don't last very long in my car.

 

cenok is family

15 Year Member

Jun 25, 2003

1,409

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79

Norman, Ok

Jan 2, 2008

#2

• Jan 2, 2008

• #2

yeah, that's what i did for my passenger side door. just won't be able to use power locks

 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

15 Year Member

Jul 6, 2006

5,232

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gainesville

Jan 2, 2008

#3

• Jan 2, 2008

• #3

my actuators havent worked since I got my car. I cant even turn the key in the lock. if I remove the actuators I will be able to lock/unlock the doors with the key?

 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy

5 Year Member

Jul 1, 2005

314

281

134

Apache Junction, AZ

Jan 2, 2008

#4

• Jan 2, 2008

• #4

stykthyn said:

my actuators havent worked since I got my car. I cant even turn the key in the lock. if I remove the actuators I will be able to lock/unlock the doors with the key?

Click to expand...

Yup, you can use the key just fine without 'em. Works a lot easier without 'em, actually, because you're not fighting against the stuck actuator while turning the key. I'm thinking of taking mine of of my '86 GT 'vert for this very reason, as they're both fried and making it difficult to use the door lock key on both sides. Just pull the door panel, drill out the rivets, and unplug the actuator - maybe a 30 minute job per side.

 

JGT

Member

Oct 29, 2006

0

0

7

Charleston, SC

Jan 2, 2008

#5

• Jan 2, 2008

• #5

Jrichker's Door Lock Actuater Fix.

 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

15 Year Member

Jul 6, 2006

5,232

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gainesville

Jan 2, 2008

#6

• Jan 2, 2008

• #6

^ now that's an awesome fix!

 

LaserSVT

Got FB banned again for saying nards

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

9,390

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Jan 2, 2008

#7

• Jan 2, 2008

• #7

I have fixed them on all my Foxes. The best fix and cheepest is go to any car stereo shop and get DEI actuators. They are only 15-20 bucks and easy to install. Just bend the mounting strap into a U shape and put a screw anchor on the strap then use a screw to mount it in the stock rivited location. The hardest part is bending the bar that comes with the actuator to the right shape. Takes my an hour to do both doors. They are quieter than stock and move easier with the key cas you arnt fighting the actuator.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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129

Jan 3, 2008

#8

• Jan 3, 2008

• #8

Another vote for the Jrichker/aftermarket method. Additionally, the actuators (even though they cost 3 bucks a piece) sound a lot better than the OEM versions IMHO.

 

trbkrb

Founding Member

Jun 4, 2001

1,976

4

39

Houston, TX

Jan 3, 2008

#9

• Jan 3, 2008

• #9

The aftermarket ones are the way to go. I've had mine for about 4 years, and they are just now sticking a bit, - can't get the passenger side to open all the time. I hope I can just lube the mechanism and they will work for a bit longer. But they were well worth the $15 I spent on them both.

I didn't use jrichker's method, but just mounted the lock actuators on the inner door frame at an angle parallel to the lock knob rod. The two silver screws show where it was mounted, I only had to drill one hole - the right one. I changed the wire connectors to crimp on spade ones so they will fit in the stock Ford plug, and wrapped it with some electrical tape.

http://statefilingsoftware.com/pictures/doorlock1.JPG
http://statefilingsoftware.com/pictures/doorlock2.JPG
http://statefilingsoftware.com/pictures/doorlock3.JPG

 

1

1996Z15

New Member

Apr 17, 2005

6

0

0

So. New Jersey

Jan 3, 2008

#10

• Jan 3, 2008

• #10

trbkrb said:

The aftermarket ones are the way to go. I've had mine for about 4 years, and they are just now sticking a bit, - can't get the passenger side to open all the time. I hope I can just lube the mechanism and they will work for a bit longer. But they were well worth the $15 I spent on them both.

I didn't use jrichker's method, but just mounted the lock actuators on the inner door frame at an angle parallel to the lock knob rod. The two silver screws show where it was mounted, I only had to drill one hole - the right one. I changed the wire connectors to crimp on spade ones so they will fit in the stock Ford plug, and wrapped it with some electrical tape.

http://statefilingsoftware.com/pictures/doorlock1.JPG
http://statefilingsoftware.com/pictures/doorlock2.JPG
http://statefilingsoftware.com/pictures/doorlock3.JPG

Click to expand...

$15.00 for two actuators? Where do you get them? I think your method looks like the easiest; I might have to try it.

Thanks

 

trbkrb

Founding Member

Jun 4, 2001

1,976

4

39

Houston, TX

Jan 3, 2008

#11

• Jan 3, 2008

• #11

It was about 4 years ago, and they were a bit cheaper each if you ordered 4 or more, so I ordered a couple of sets and spit it with a friend. Total with shipping was like $24, plus the cost of the spade connectors and such. Now they run about $26-27 for 4 with shipping, or $19-20 for two with shipping.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?st=0&st2=0&st3=0&DID=7&Product_ID=9675&DS_ID=3

 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter

Feb 9, 2003

853

8

39

Illinois

Jan 3, 2008

#12

• Jan 3, 2008

• #12

I see the angle that the actuator is mounted, downwards at an angle. Please give us some more info how it is attached to the stock place where the stock actuator is attached. Does the aftermarket get bolted directly to the stock one? Just not understanding which way the aftermarket moves or what. Thanks in advance.

 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter

Feb 9, 2003

853

8

39

Illinois

Jan 3, 2008

#13

• Jan 3, 2008

• #13

Maybe I am getting it now..... so the aftermarket is mounted angled the same direction as the angled door unlock knob rod. When the aftermarket is triggered it pushed the rod up or down like you were manually doing it from the knob. If this is correct. Tell me more on what you used to connect the aftermarket to the rod please. Also how does the aftermarket mount to the door. I see the two screws. Are they screwed directly into the aftermarket actuator or what? Thanks

 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000

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Dublin GA

Jan 3, 2008

#14

• Jan 3, 2008

• #14

What could be clener and easier than this?
Here’s a picture of the new actuator installed: