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Door locks not working except one function.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 281pony
  • Start date Start date Jan 1, 2010
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Mercedez

New Member
Jun 3, 2008
36
0
0
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2010
#21
  • Jan 3, 2010
  • #21
281pony said:
i looked behind the drivers side kick panel. i found one pair of wires, twisted around each other. they come out of a wire harness leading up from that metal "pocket" behind the kick panel. they might link up with the wiring coming out of the door, i couldn't tell yet.

the twisted wires are a single blue and white wire. they don't look oem. its just cut and hanging there. i also felt the stem of cut wires behind the fuse panel. i guess ill take the mounting screws out of the fuse panel and get a look at them.

its so cramped in there with the seat installed. i couldn't really get that good of a look. does this help anyone who knows how alarms are installed?
Click to expand...

 

281pony

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
2,681
2
46
Oly, WA
Jan 3, 2010
#22
  • Jan 3, 2010
  • #22
i have manual locks right now. i want the power back.

it would be alot easier to mend this, if there was never an alarm. i think i'll run by that shop again tomorrow. tell them it had an alarm, and he should know right where to go from there.
 

2BADSTANGS

Member
Jun 19, 2008
385
1
18
Colorado
Jan 3, 2010
#23
  • Jan 3, 2010
  • #23
281pony said:
i looked behind the drivers side kick panel. i found one pair of wires, twisted around each other. they come out of a wire harness leading up from that metal "pocket" behind the kick panel. they might link up with the wiring coming out of the door, i couldn't tell yet.

the twisted wires are a single blue and white wire. they don't look oem. its just cut and hanging there. i also felt the stem of cut wires behind the fuse panel. i guess ill take the mounting screws out of the fuse panel and get a look at them.

its so cramped in there with the seat installed. i couldn't really get that good of a look. does this help anyone who knows how alarms are installed?
Click to expand...

I believe, you have hit paydirt. You now just need to find the other pair coming from the door side and connect them together. I'll almost guarentee that those are half of the wires you need to re- connect Look for the pink/ yellow and pink/ green wires I keep talking about, follow them find the splice and re- connect them. That should be the end of your lock hedache.
 

old_blue

15 Year Member
Nov 3, 2003
1,783
282
124
Jan 4, 2010
#24
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #24
my last alarm I didnt need a relay and am not really sure why. It may have been something built into the alarm unit but I hooked the wires from the unit directly to the door lock system and they worked fine. the new system I am getting the guy is making the relays for me so I assume it isnt as compatible as my last one.
 

Mercedez

New Member
Jun 3, 2008
36
0
0
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2010
#25
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #25
old_blue said:
my last alarm I didnt need a relay and am not really sure why. It may have been something built into the alarm unit but I hooked the wires from the unit directly to the door lock system and they worked fine. the new system I am getting the guy is making the relays for me so I assume it isnt as compatible as my last one.
Click to expand...

Stick with the best alarm Clifford.
 

Mercedez

New Member
Jun 3, 2008
36
0
0
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2010
#26
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #26
281pony said:
i have manual locks right now. i want the power back.

it would be alot easier to mend this, if there was never an alarm. i think i'll run by that shop again tomorrow. tell them it had an alarm, and he should know right where to go from there.
Click to expand...

Not here we would rather have the manual windows and locks. especially the locks just had gone through too many actuators.
 

281pony

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
2,681
2
46
Oly, WA
Jan 4, 2010
#27
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #27
instead of paying $200 for him to re-wire the locks, i put that money and some extra towards a nice alarm.

they are gonna clean up the ****storm the old alarm left behind, and install my new stuff tomorrow after work. the actuators work fine, so my keyless will work. i figured why spend a bunch of money just so i dont reach across the car ocassionally to open the door? i want the convenience of keyless and nothing else really.
 

2BADSTANGS

Member
Jun 19, 2008
385
1
18
Colorado
Jan 4, 2010
#28
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #28
281pony said:
instead of paying $200 for him to re-wire the locks, i put that money and some extra towards a nice alarm.

they are gonna clean up the ****storm the old alarm left behind, and install my new stuff tomorrow after work. the actuators work fine, so my keyless will work. i figured why spend a bunch of money just so i dont reach across the car ocassionally to open the door? i want the convenience of keyless and nothing else really.
Click to expand...
Since it's my thing, I've put keyless entry and remote start on all of my vehicles. (except cobra... waiting on funds....) I don't even remember how to unlock a door with a key! Well, hope this ends it for your lock headache... Let us know how the new setup works out!!!
 

old_blue

15 Year Member
Nov 3, 2003
1,783
282
124
Jan 5, 2010
#29
  • Jan 5, 2010
  • #29
Mercedez said:
Stick with the best alarm Clifford.
Click to expand...

it was a clifford and didnt require relays. I stick with DEI stuff. Python is the one I am putting in now and the relays are needed in this one. Expecially to reverse the polarity on the trunk release.
 

2BADSTANGS

Member
Jun 19, 2008
385
1
18
Colorado
Jan 5, 2010
#30
  • Jan 5, 2010
  • #30
old_blue said:
it was a clifford and didnt require relays. I stick with DEI stuff. Python is the one I am putting in now and the relays are needed in this one. Expecially to reverse the polarity on the trunk release.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, Your trunk release shouldnt have to reverse polarity like the locks, as it only moves one way, a posative pulse on the correct wire will activate it, however most alarms don't come with configureable aux relays built in, so you'll still need a relay. As far as Cliffords, They are now made by DEI as you mentioned. All of DEI's stuff is good (Clifford, Viper, Hornet, Wasp, Valet, etc.) The features you are looking for will determine what sub- brand and model you choose. I believe DEI bought out the original Clifford company around 2000, However old school cliffords were cutting edge in their time, they were a verry innovative company. I've got a Viper 800esp on my '93 with a 530t window control module, 508d Proximity sensor, battery back up, and a 551r remote start. Those ol' 800's are pretty sweet, they were the best viper out when I bought it, kind of expensive, but had almost all of the necessary relays built in and the configuration is almost infinantly flexible. Cant find the ol 800's very easily any more. But mine's been flawless for almost 10yrs now!
 

281pony

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
2,681
2
46
Oly, WA
Jan 6, 2010
#31
  • Jan 6, 2010
  • #31
had the new alarm installed today. doors are now keyless entry. problem solved basically for me.

 

2BADSTANGS

Member
Jun 19, 2008
385
1
18
Colorado
Jan 6, 2010
#32
  • Jan 6, 2010
  • #32
281pony said:
had the new alarm installed today. doors are now keyless entry. problem solved basically for me.

Click to expand...
Good to hear!!! Next step, remote start?
 

281pony

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
2,681
2
46
Oly, WA
Jan 8, 2010
#33
  • Jan 8, 2010
  • #33
ugh. i posted my reply the night i came home from the alarm install.

the following DAY my door lock actuator on the drivers side started whining. it already failed apparently. they didn't setup ignition lock/unlock like they promised. there is also no sensor/popper for my trunk.

doesn't seem like i got a $400 alarm to me... i gotta go back tomorrow, and atleast say wtf about some stuff. this is why i should just not mod stuff. apparently there is no capable shops in my state.
 

old_blue

15 Year Member
Nov 3, 2003
1,783
282
124
Jan 19, 2010
#34
  • Jan 19, 2010
  • #34
update??? like I said before jrichter has a great actuator upgrade.
 
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