88 GT. So I have replaced both door lock actuators and they do work. Kinda. You have to hit the button like 5-6 times and it barely moves. Then will finally unlock. I sprayed some penetrating oil on everything. Is there something I’m missing???
Unfortunately, the design stinks. What did you replace them with? Reproductions, used or NOS? The Repro ones I bought when I got my car work solidly when only one is plugged in, but must pull too much power together when both are plugged in to clunk. Snd the passenger side one is dying. @jrichker has a write up on a adapting a universal solenoid that lasts much longer. I just need to get some bench space cleared to make it happen. Ordering the solenoids from the place he listed is easy.
I got mine from LMR and they didn't last a year, luckily they failed in the unlocked position. I'm doing the @jrichker replacement this time around, it's somewhere on my very long list of repairs.
Scroll down to jrichker’s post and link to the how to. I plan on using terminals instead of Scotch Locks for the power wires. I have used the clamp on splices for quick stereo installs and fixing trailer lights, but I do not want to tear the door apart if they start not making good connections. The rest seems like a great fix.
I need another opinion before I dig into my driver’s side door lock and inner handle system. 1. The power locks work fine, but when it was cold and wet, something froze, and the lock rod came out. The key unlocks fine, but I am worried about breaking the key to lock the door because it is so...
88 GT. So I have replaced both door lock actuators and they do work. Kinda. You have to hit the button like 5-6 times and it barely moves. Then will finally unlock. I sprayed some penetrating oil on everything. Is there something I’m missing???
Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?
A new actuator for less than $8. Fix one side for $20, do both sides for only $28. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.
By the way, I am still using the same $4 actuators I bought in 2002 and this is the second Mustang I have installed them in! Beat that with your fancy replacements!
thanks guys. I do have one more problem, today when we were out the door lock button was stuck in lock position and I didn't realize it until after lunch and I tired unlocking the pass door, and there is nothing now at all like no power to them...I have read that the power comes from the starter solenoid, but I am not sure what wire it is, and are the fusable links changeable? or should I pull power from a different source.
I will download that how to read it, if it works as good as I have heard, sounds like the only way to go
thanks guys. I do have one more problem, today when we were out the door lock button was stuck in lock position and I didn't realize it until after lunch and I tired unlocking the pass door, and there is nothing now at all like no power to them...I have read that the power comes from the starter solenoid, but I am not sure what wire it is, and are the fusable links changeable? or should I pull power from a different source.
I will download that how to read it, if it works as good as I have heard, sounds like the only way to go
There is a circuit breaker on the solenoid for the windows & door locks....
Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang
Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
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See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring; http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.[/b]