Drilling for Shelby drop

Also I think it's worth mentioning that there are two different templates. The drilling template for the '65-'66 cars is different from the '67-up cars. Make very, very, VERY sure you use the correct one for your car.

And you're looking at the correct side of the template. Punch the holes before you drill to help keep bit from walking. Don't just measure twice, cut once, measure about 4 times, 'cause if you screw this up, it's a more than a minor inconvenience to fix.

I used an 1/8" bit, then 1/4" bit, then used a step bit to increase the size. Actually broke the tip off of the step bit, which worked better because it kept me from drilling into the headers. Finished it up with the 17/32" from Dazecars, worked like a charm and if there is any slop in the holes, I can't tell it.

I thought I had read (in Branda catalog I think) that after doing the drop, use about half the shims that were in there before to get you to the alignment shop. Anybody care to say how correct that is?
 
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Holes drilled with no issue, but FORD was not symmetrical

Got the holes drilled today. I went with drilling in stages and the holes came out dead on last size bit was 1/2" and the bolts fit thru fine.

However the factory holes on the drivers side were drilled a little toward the rear vs. the passengers side. I had to "adjust" the tower a bit to allow clearance for the grease fitting on the rear end of the drivers side control arm shaft.

I hope with FORD being off this all works out. I took my time and checked the holes as I went along and they are on spot.

If you look at the images you can see the drivers side top holes are shifter to the rear.

sparx

Drivers Side
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Passenger side

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