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drilling through carpet

  • Thread starter Thread starter robbz28
  • Start date Start date Jan 2, 2011

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Jan 2, 2011
#1
  • Jan 2, 2011
  • #1
Kind of a silly subject, but there has got to be a trick to drilling a hole through the carpet & underlay without getting a big wad of underlay wrapped around the drill bit. I am trying to tap some holes in the tunnel for my console and of course I need to do this with the carpet in there, anyone got an old indian trick to make this work?
 
P

pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Jan 2, 2011
#2
  • Jan 2, 2011
  • #2
First thing that comes to mind is to take a utility knife and cut an "X" through the carpet and underlay down to the metal that way you won't actually be drilling the carpet.
 

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Jan 2, 2011
#3
  • Jan 2, 2011
  • #3
yeah, i have thought of that, also while sitting here I thought about just cutting a slit instead of an X and then putting a shor piece of small 1/8 pipe (just to hold the carpet out of my way) and then drill through the floorboard...
 

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Jan 3, 2011
#4
  • Jan 3, 2011
  • #4
but will one of those fabric punches go through the carpet and the insulation and the underlay? It would take a serious blow to get through all of that and not beat up the floor pan in the process. I like the soldering iron idea, if it will melt the insulation as well, I am having to go through 5/8-3/4 of an inch of materials, i can probably compress it to 3/8 when i finally get a screw through it.
 

pabear89

Active Member
Apr 15, 2003
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46
High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H
Jan 3, 2011
#5
  • Jan 3, 2011
  • #5
I have found the best way to locate and make screw/bolt holes thru the carpet and such, Is using a cotterpin tool to locate the hole center.
Then a hot soldering iron to make a neat hole thru the carpet and underlayment. I have used it for screws to seatbelt bolts with great results.
 
O

other_shoe

Member
May 4, 2007
313
3
19
Jan 3, 2011
#6
  • Jan 3, 2011
  • #6
These will come in very handy when I replace the carpet this Spring. I put a big run in the last one when screwing in the back of the door sill plates.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
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79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Jan 3, 2011
#7
  • Jan 3, 2011
  • #7
OK, ya'll don't seriously think they did all that at the factory, right? Yet carpet pulls were not a problem.

Solution? Same for whether you are making a new hole, such as adding a console, or finding an old one, when replacing the carpet.

Use an awl and mallet. Fast, easy, requires no heat, no carpet pulls, and finds old holes.

 

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
5
19
Epps, LA
Jan 3, 2011
#8
  • Jan 3, 2011
  • #8
God love ya 2+2, always there with what is possibly the best answer that makes us all say "duhhhh" and with a picture....I think i'll head to the hardware store tomorrow and pick me one up.
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Jan 4, 2011
#9
  • Jan 4, 2011
  • #9
What has consistently worked for me, is using a pencil point soldering iron and cauterizing each screw hole. I use tan awl to locate the holes through the mounting points, the carpet and the metal.
Happy Motoring!
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2011
#10
  • Jan 4, 2011
  • #10
I guarantee the carpet in this car was not pierced with anything hot.

Yours for only $145,000 (BIN) or whatever it brings at auction.

 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
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Severna Park, MD
Jan 4, 2011
#11
  • Jan 4, 2011
  • #11
That is one beautiful ride!
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2011
#12
  • Jan 4, 2011
  • #12
PoppyMod said:
That is one beautiful ride!
Click to expand...

Built from trash. It's real, though, which made it worth fixing. Here's "before".



 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Jan 4, 2011
#13
  • Jan 4, 2011
  • #13
That's a study in tenacity!
Nice, very nice work.
 

65springtime

Member
Oct 14, 2010
61
0
6
Mayfield, Ky.
Jan 8, 2011
#14
  • Jan 8, 2011
  • #14
Wow, that is some transformation. Just a beautiful job. Really hard to believe that is the same car. But like you said "it is worth it".
 

65springtime

Member
Oct 14, 2010
61
0
6
Mayfield, Ky.
Jan 8, 2011
#15
  • Jan 8, 2011
  • #15
The more I look at the befor picture, the more I say to myself-why did they let if get in that bad of shape? Some people just do not take care of things. Or was it a Chop Shop?
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Jan 8, 2011
#16
  • Jan 8, 2011
  • #16
65springtime said:
The more I look at the befor picture, the more I say to myself-why did they let if get in that bad of shape? Some people just do not take care of things. Or was it a Chop Shop?
Click to expand...

No, it went out west when new, even made a speed run at Bonneville. Driven for years, came back about 15-20 years ago on a tow, already rusty. Taken apart for restoration, shop and/or owner were in over their heads, the body hung on a rotisserie, but all the parts were out in the weather.
 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
Jan 18, 2011
#17
  • Jan 18, 2011
  • #17
Instead of punching I melt the holes in the carpet. This seals the edges to prevent runners and makes it EASY to find the hole.

Get a drill bit the size of the hole you want. Put a piece of rubber hose on the sharp end. Use a propane torch to heat the butt end just barely red hot. Place it on the carpet and melt on through. I put a piece of masking tape on the carpet with the hole location marked and burn right through the tape.

I even used a 1/2" bit and burned the holes for the seat belts. It took me a couple of heat cycles but it worked great. Burned right through the underlayment also.
 
F

Flying Dutchman

Member
Sep 26, 2007
48
0
7
Nothern central Massachusetts
Jan 19, 2011
#18
  • Jan 19, 2011
  • #18
I use a wood burning tool perfect size holes for seat belts, sonsoles, seats.
 
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