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Driveshaft bolt removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter 5.0 Nostalgia
  • Start date Start date Sep 7, 2004
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5.0 Nostalgia

10 Year Member
Feb 28, 2003
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Sep 7, 2004
#1
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #1
I am having trouble getting my driveshaft bolts out. The damn bolts will not bulge. Does anyone have any tips for breaking them loose? I don't have air tools and don't want to snap a bolt and leave it in the rear. I have tried soaking them with PB Blaster.
 

5o5speed

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Aug 9, 2004
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Sep 7, 2004
#2
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #2
5.0 Nostalgia said:
I am having trouble getting my driveshaft bolts out. The damn bolts will not bulge. Does anyone have any tips for breaking them loose? I don't have air tools and don't want to snap a bolt and leave it in the rear. I have tried soaking them with PB Blaster.
Click to expand...

From what I remember you can't get a socket on the bolts because the driveshaft is in the way right? So get the longest wrentch you have that will fit and put the box end on the driveshaft bolt. Now, take a similar sized wrench and loop its box end through the open end of the wrench on the bolt. By using the two wrenches in combination you should be able to generate enough torque to get the bolts out. Try it--it helps me out all the time.
 
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Daggar

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Jul 19, 2004
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#3
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #3
You can get to two bolts at a time then rotate the driveshaft for the other two if the weight is off of the rear wheels. If the weight is on the rear wheels sometimes you can only get to one at a time. Either way, the 12 point wrench method and a hydraulic jack works or a breaker bar, 12 point socket and long handle or jack will work. I can honestly say that I've never seen one of those bolts wring off. They're pretty tough. When you torque em back down you torque them hard too. They're like 95 - 100 Ft lbs.
 

5.0fox

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Feb 10, 2003
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Sep 7, 2004
#4
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #4
they make a very precise tool for this its called a cheater pipe
 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Feb 28, 2003
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Sep 7, 2004
#5
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #5
Thank you for the information.
 

5.0 Nostalgia

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#6
  • Sep 7, 2004
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5.0fox said:
they make a very precise tool for this its called a cheater pipe
Click to expand...

I think I have a winner! I am going to try this tommorrow.
 

The Shape

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Jan 11, 2002
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Sep 7, 2004
#7
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #7
I used that very tool! When I put my Aluminum d/s in I soaked the bolts for a while with penetrating lube. Then I used a 12 point box end wrench with the..........
BOPOP
(big ole' piece o pipe)

Make sure and clean all the years of grime out of the threads and use locktite when you put them back in. I didn't have a torque wrench handy when I did mine so I told my buddy who was helping me (who is a big guy) to put the wrench on there and try and break the wrench or the bolt. The have never backed out.
 

Mavrick

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Sep 7, 2004
#8
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #8
I used the double wrench method.. just have to give them a good jerk to crack them loose, then it's pie.
 

cevtv

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Sep 15, 2002
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Sep 7, 2004
#9
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #9
The factory bolts have thread lock on them. The proper method is to use heat. Use a small propane torch, heat the bolt for 20-30 seconds, and it should come out no problem.
 
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92BlackGT

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Aug 4, 2003
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Sep 7, 2004
#10
  • Sep 7, 2004
  • #10
torches work wonders.
 

Asha'man

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Sep 8, 2004
#11
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #11
I was wondering when someone would mention the torch. I pulled a TC tranny at the junkyard last year; was under the car, which was tilted up on it's rear, so not much room by the axle. Torched each bolt, stuck the 12mm 12-pt wrench on, put the cheater pipe on the wrench, got out from under the car, and stood on the pipe...popped 'em loose like cake.

Gotta have heat, nothing else will touch the Loctite.

Ash
 
T

TheDevil

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Sep 8, 2004
#12
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #12
Use a jack, just position the jack against the wrench, while holding the wrench steady and the jack does all the work. I didnt even have to strain to get mine off and they were tight mo fo's, every bolt was cake this way as I couldnt get my car up high enough to get good leverage on my cheater and I didnt have enough room.
 

TheBocSez

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Feb 3, 2004
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Converse, TX
Sep 8, 2004
#13
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #13
I went with the "leg press" method. Support car on jack stands. Put 12pt wrench on bolt, put foot on wrench and press like hell. Worked for me.
 

jrichker

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#14
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TheBocSez said:
I went with the "leg press" method. Support car on jack stands. Put 12pt wrench on bolt, put foot on wrench and press like hell. Worked for me.
Click to expand...

New definition for the phrase "Foot pounds of torque"
 

04sleeper

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Jun 22, 2002
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Sep 8, 2004
#15
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #15
TheBocSez said:
I went with the "leg press" method. Support car on jack stands. Put 12pt wrench on bolt, put foot on wrench and press like hell. Worked for me.
Click to expand...
I have used this method before. It does work!

Oh yeah be sure to put Loctite back on these bolts so they don't back out on you.
 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Feb 28, 2003
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Sep 8, 2004
#16
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #16
Thanks for the information guys. As long as it won't break anything, I will try to use the jack method. I wanted to use the torch in the first place, but don't have one. One more question. Do I have to remove the shifter to pull the transmission out? I just took off the boot, inner boot, and handle. It seems like it will be hard to get the rest of the shifter to clear the undercarriage. It is a Hurst shifter if that helps.
 

5spd GT

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Aug 7, 2002
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Sep 8, 2004
#17
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #17
I had a similar problem last year when we were installing the clutch...the bolts wouldn't break loose...we actually put an air impact gun on them and it snapped the socket on the gun in two ...so outcame the torch and the double wrench method and they came out after some negotiating...

I know I was bending one of my open ended wrenches (when useing double wrench method)...when trying to break loose my head bolts...

So what is the proper torque on the driveshaft bolts...I've seen anywhere from 75lbs-125lbs?...which one is it...
 

MUSTANGJOE

Silver Stanger
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Apr 9, 2002
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Sep 8, 2004
#18
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #18
I used a wrench.then I used the handle from my jack (a big long tube) and used it just like that the cheater pipe would. The diff always moves around so I stuck another tube between the U joint I think its called (dont remember the term) While a buddy held that in place to lock the diff I removed the bolts. Those bolts are very tight and I bent 2 wrenches in the process. But I got the job done. Oh yeah! When you reinstall those bolts make sure you really tighten them ..try to go to a shop and let them use there air tools..because I retightened mine by hand and a week later my car started to vibrate, so I went to the shop and my diff was about to come right off! the bolts fell off and it was running on 1 bolt which was about to come off too! I just could imagine the damage that would of caused!..Anyways good luck!
 
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Daggar

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Jul 19, 2004
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Sep 8, 2004
#19
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #19
5spd GT said:
So what is the proper torque on the driveshaft bolts...I've seen anywhere from 75lbs-125lbs?...which one is it...
Click to expand...

I checked the book. It says 90-95 ft lbs.
 

FrdMustangCpe

New Member
May 27, 2004
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Sin City, NV
Sep 8, 2004
#20
  • Sep 8, 2004
  • #20
Yep...i used the leg press
 
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