driveshaft issue

[Torinalth]

i was working on my PHB and thought a lot of my clunking was from the LCAs... wrong... i reached up and grabbed my driveshaft (tranny in 4th, E brake on) and could twist it by hand, a rather large amount. it wasnt like a massive rotation, but i'd say around 1/16th rotation if not more like 1/10. no real way to measure. this clunking has been getting worse over the years. think i should get a new driveshaft, u joiint, and what about the splined shafts both in the differential and in the tranny... can they be swapped out for new?

Torinalth

 

[mity2]

U joint. Make sure to get new one with grease nipple on it

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Just get the u joints to start IMHO...

 

[Torinalth]

the u joint its self it NOT moving, tis ver solid... the wntire shaft is able to be rotated, u joint included. same thing?

Torinalth

 

[mity2]

take the shaft out of car. and see. Bet its needle bearing gone

 

[Torinalth]

needle bearing? i know my suspension, but i have to learn on the driveline

Torinalth

 

[hotrodnut]

If there is no movement in the u-joints as you said, which I have experienced too, there is a lot of slop in the splines of most of the axles/carriers I've seen on the 8.8's.

Also, depending on your ring and pinion back-lash setting there could seem to be quite a bit of slop from that too.

I've felt it to be excessive and so far in my Mustang I have had 3 different carrier/axle set ups and they all have rotated about as much as you say when the brake is applied like you did.

 

[Torinalth]

so, more or less i will have to deal with it? but... if it was just the rear end, and not the driveshaft or the tranny splines then the shaft shouldnt turn... the tranny should be tight as well, shouldnt it? this kinda makes me think either the driveshaft, or maybe everything from the tranny pickup to the u joint pickup into the differential.

Torinalth

 

[mity2]

Rearend will have very little slack. Naturaly. ANd so will trans.
Like i said, take out the driveshaft. Its 4 bolts. and see if there are any slak on eather end.
U joint is cheap($20~), and reletively simple(if you have bench Vice, I used big C-cramp) to replace.

 

[RoadconeTuning]

so, more or less i will have to deal with it? but... if it was just the rear end, and not the driveshaft or the tranny splines then the shaft shouldnt turn... the tranny should be tight as well, shouldnt it? this kinda makes me think either the driveshaft, or maybe everything from the tranny pickup to the u joint pickup into the differential.

Torinalth

im in the same boat... when the car was in the air and the ebrake on i could move the driveshaft a little... i dont like it because under very light loads and under shocks it maks a clanking noise...

 

[hotrodnut]

so, more or less i will have to deal with it? but... if it was just the rear end, and not the driveshaft or the tranny splines then the shaft shouldnt turn... the tranny should be tight as well, shouldnt it? this kinda makes me think either the driveshaft, or maybe everything from the tranny pickup to the u joint pickup into the differential.

Torinalth

With the emergency brake set as you said you did and no slop in the u-joints as you said you had, then the only slop you are getting is from the rear end.

If you want to include the slop from the transmission and u-joints (which there isn't any as you stated) then put it in 4th gear, take the emergancy brake off and rotate the wheel. You will be amazed at how much the wheel will rotate in degrees from one direction to the other because it includes all the slop from the tranny back.

I found that even the aftermarket Moser Axles and Eaton Carrier had more slop than the Factory Ford parts for the 8.8.

One reason for me installing a line lock on my Mustang was to be able to bump the clutch to tighten up all that slop in the drivetrain before launching. This helps to avoid the initial slap that all the loose parts generate at the point of engagement and there is a less chance of not breaking anything.

 

[Torinalth]

Rearend will have very little slack. Naturaly. ANd so will trans.
Like i said, take out the driveshaft. Its 4 bolts. and see if there are any slak on eather end.
U joint is cheap($20~), and reletively simple(if you have bench Vice, I used big C-cramp) to replace.

taking a guess here... using pliers to pop out the snap rings on all four sides, then what, use the c clamp to pop the lil + out from one direction?

Torinalth

 

[mity2]

taking a guess here... using pliers to pop out the snap rings on all four sides, then what, use the c clamp to pop the lil + out from one direction?

Torinalth

or benchvice. Use 2 sockets(I think I used 12mm and 22mm), and push it out.
Don't use those cheap C-cramp tho. I used cheap one, and snapped in half

 

[Torinalth]

ok, this is getting really bad now, any time the driveline is not under load (acclleration) and i go over a bump, it sounds like my damn back end is mising bolts. put it under load and its solid. i am going to pull the driveshaft tonight. what do i need to look for.

Torinalth

 

[mity2]

while your down there, look for bushing on Control arm. Also check to see if your torqu box is intact. Many of them develops crack there

 

[Torinalth]

LCAs are brand new, put them in saterday.. but this was before i even got them, its just getting worse... i'll check the TBs as well while i have the back end up.

torinalth

 

[hotrodnut]

ok, this is getting really bad now, any time the driveline is not under load (acclleration) and i go over a bump, it sounds like my damn back end is mising bolts. put it under load and its solid. i am going to pull the driveshaft tonight. what do i need to look for.

Torinalth

Well, I can't see how rear end slop could sound like bolts are missing when going over bumps so along with mity2's suggestions I'd check the sway bar mounting, my step-son's came loose on his GT and had similar situations as yours has, and possibly the exhaust is banging on something, mine and his hit the PHB on bumps until we made a couple adjustments to the exhaust ?????

 

[Torinalth]

swaybar is solid and not hitting anything, under full bump and rebound the exhaust is massivly clear of the PHB chasis mount. i couldnt see anything wrong with the torque boxes, LCAs were tight and both ends were secure, square, and oriented properly. PHB was tight, and clear of everything.

i know its something in the driveline. i didnt have the time to drop the shaft to take a look. it might have to wait till the weekend before i can tear into it again and see whats going on.

I suppose missing bolts is a bad comparison. its sturdy metal on sturdy metal contact... kinda... kinda like one of theose lawn service trucks that tow a semi large trailer with like 4 mowers... it goes over train tracks and has all the noise of the tractors banging around on the trailer... thats about the same sound.

EDIT: better comparison: when some older semi trucks are on the highway, and hit a few bumps, their trailers pull down door bangs around because its not as tight as it used to be.... thats prolly the most accurate sound it makes.

Torinalth

 

[trinity_gt]

kinda like one of theose lawn service trucks that tow a semi large trailer with like 4 mowers... it goes over train tracks and has all the noise of the tractors banging around on the trailer... thats about the same sound.

"any time the driveline is not under load (acclleration) and i go over a bump, it sounds like my damn back end is mising bolts"

I'd turn my attention back to the the LCAs ... check the front bushings.

Any weird tracking issues or wandering?

EDIT: Never mind...I see that they're new...

 

[Torinalth]

heh, thanks for the stab trin... trying is helpful

tracking is good, no wandering, since the install everything is much better then it was.... just the noise has not gone away, but i didnt think it would anyhow.

Torinalth