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Driveshaft Questions T-5

  • Thread starter Thread starter 66ford289
  • Start date Start date Sep 27, 2005

66ford289

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Apr 10, 2005
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Sep 27, 2005
#1
  • Sep 27, 2005
  • #1
I took my driveshaft in today to have it cut down and the second they looked at it they told me that both of my joints had failed due to the caps wearing and distoring them. Then another guy walks in and immeadiately tells me that my front yoke (output from the tranny) was bad because the caps were sliding around(didn't know they went bad? He then tells me that the yoke needs to be replaced. I then told him I had the late model yoke, but he didn't know off hand how to fit it. Does anybody know how to fit the t-5 yoke to the early driveshaft. Also if someone knows where I can get a precut driveshaft for a t-5 swap for a reasonable price let me know. I have a feeling a 3/4" cut just became a $200+ job.
 
S

steel1212

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Jun 24, 2004
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Sep 28, 2005
#2
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #2
I got mine from streetortrack.com but its 300$ but comes with the yolk...I think.
 

LMan

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Sep 28, 2005
#3
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #3
you can use an early front yoke, the splines are the same. No need to hunt up a late-model yoke.
 
S

steel1212

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Sep 28, 2005
#4
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #4
LMan said:
you can use an early front yoke, the splines are the same. No need to hunt up a late-model yoke.
Click to expand...

I think the c4 yolk is the same splines maybe?
 

chepsk8

Founding Member
Jan 15, 2001
2,203
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Easton, PA
Sep 28, 2005
#5
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #5
I have a 69 driveshaft in my basement collecting dust. Yours for shipping.....
 

LMan

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#6
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #6
steel1212 said:
I think the c4 yolk is the same splines maybe?
Click to expand...

yep.
 

66ford289

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Apr 10, 2005
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Sep 28, 2005
#7
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #7
I have the c-4 driveshaft yoke, and the t-5, they are both bad so now i have to buy a new driveshaft all together because to repair the original is around the same price as a new one. I know modern driveline makes them anyone have any other thoughts?
 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003
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Sep 28, 2005
#8
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #8
My shaft (the one in the early model) came from M+ when the toploader was in the car.

Put in the T5 and my shaft went in with no problems or lube! Not really sure why you had to shorten your unit.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

66ford289

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Apr 10, 2005
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Sep 28, 2005
#9
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #9
From everything i've ever read about the t-5 swap the driveshaft needs to be shortened 3/4". When you ordered from M+ was the shaft for the toploader?
 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003
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Sep 28, 2005
#10
  • Sep 28, 2005
  • #10
66ford289 said:
From everything i've ever read about the t-5 swap the driveshaft needs to be shortened 3/4". When you ordered from M+ was the shaft for the toploader?
Click to expand...

Yes.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

LMan

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Sep 29, 2005
#11
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #11
66ford289 said:
From everything i've ever read about the t-5 swap the driveshaft needs to be shortened 3/4". When you ordered from M+ was the shaft for the toploader?
Click to expand...

shortening is the worst-case scenario. It depends on the situation, some have to shorten, others do not. I did not have to alter my d/s at all, it fit perfectly as is.

You need to mock it all up and see. Every car is different, since Ford's dimensional QC wasn't the best and you are making up a combination of parts from across 40 years of production. There are going to be variances!

Vendors always warn you about shortening the d/s because its the prudent thing to do. I would do the same thing
 

66ford289

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Sep 29, 2005
#12
  • Sep 29, 2005
  • #12
Ahhhhhhhhhhh gotta love tolerances and variances, i'll hop on under there and see if she fits up okay. I'll keep you guys informed if it does.
 

66ford289

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Sep 30, 2005
#13
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #13
Okay I fit up the driveshaft and it has adequate clearance, from what I can see, when the car is sitting flat. I jacked the back end all the way up to go through a full pivot of the driveshaft. When the axle was all the way down (tires off the ground) it began to push in on the rear seal of the transmission, will this be okay? If the seal can't be rubbed at all is it possible to get a thinner rear seal? Should I just go up to the parts store and have a look and see if theres differences in seals?
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
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Rowland Heights,California
Sep 30, 2005
#14
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #14
LMan said:
. I did not have to alter my d/s at all, it fit perfectly as is.
Click to expand...
Mine from my C-4 worked perfectly.
 

66ford289

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Apr 10, 2005
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Sep 30, 2005
#15
  • Sep 30, 2005
  • #15
LMan said:
shortening is the worst-case scenario. It depends on the situation, some have to shorten, others do not. I did not have to alter my d/s at all, it fit perfectly as is.

You need to mock it all up and see. Every car is different, since Ford's dimensional QC wasn't the best and you are making up a combination of parts from across 40 years of production. There are going to be variances!

Vendors always warn you about shortening the d/s because its the prudent thing to do. I would do the same thing
Click to expand...

I think this is the truth behind the driveshaft shortening idea.
(by no means am i saying you do not ever have to shorten a drivehshaft to make it fit properly)
 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003
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Oct 1, 2005
#16
  • Oct 1, 2005
  • #16
Notice that as you add car weight to the rear end the shaft actually moves out of the tranny (it seems like it would be the opposite - but not the case).

Therefore, your rear wheels will have to be totally off the ground while driving to come anywhere close to doing any damage to the seal.

If your rear wheels are off the ground while driving you will much more to worry about that damage to a seal.

Your shaft will be OK as is..............

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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