Driveshaft Vibration - New Alum or ReBalance???

FrdMustangCpe

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May 27, 2004

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Sin City, NV

Jul 24, 2004

#1

• Jul 24, 2004

• #1

Since i got my t-5 swapped by a local shop ive had a vibration at 3,000+rpm, and in fifth above 2,000rpm. the vibration in fifth is when i let off the throttle and when im on it.
*so i think it might be because the driveshaft is out of whack. ive seen a couple of posts that when you remove a driveshaft and put it back in, it will be o.k or it will vibrate and need to be balance.
*so i think these clowns that swapped my t-5 didnt rebalance it. is that something that they would be able to do? or a tranny shop??
*or should i invest in a aluminum ds and put it in myself (if thats the case i need to know how to do it)

 

FrdMustangCpe

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May 27, 2004

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Jul 24, 2004

#2

• Jul 24, 2004

• #2

o yea, its been awhile since ive gotten the car outta the shop. ive been working a lot so i havent been able to bring it in for them to look at it. i will have a few days off, but some family is coming to visit so i would need my car. should i bring it to them, or should i get a alum. ds???

finally, the bolts from my h-pipe to my mufflers were vibrating apart. i went to look at it the other day and i had 2 bolts down there, and from the muffler to the hangar the nuts were gone....its pretty bad.

thanx

 

TT91

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May 23, 2003

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Paramus, NJ

Jul 24, 2004

#3

• Jul 24, 2004

• #3

It doesnt need to be "rebalenced" everytime you remove it, but its probably not installed on the same tooth that it came off from all the years youve had no trouble with it.Aluminum driveshafts are awesome, i recommend getting one even if your stocker is fine.

 

FrdMustangCpe

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May 27, 2004

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Jul 24, 2004

#4

• Jul 24, 2004

• #4

ill probably get a new alum one. can i put it in in my driveway w/ hand tools???

 

TT91

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May 23, 2003

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Paramus, NJ

Jul 24, 2004

#5

• Jul 24, 2004

• #5

yes u can, ull need a 12 or 11( i forget) Millimeter, 12pt, closed end wrench for the 4 driveshaft bolts connecting to the rear end, youll need a jack, and about 20 min of free time.

 

FrdMustangCpe

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Jul 24, 2004

#6

• Jul 24, 2004

• #6

sirsureshot39 said:

yes u can, ull need a 12 or 11( i forget) Millimeter, 12pt, closed end wrench for the 4 driveshaft bolts connecting to the rear end, youll need a jack, and about 20 min of free time.

Click to expand...

sounds easy. whats the 12pt for?

 

TT91

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May 23, 2003

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Jul 24, 2004

#7

• Jul 24, 2004

• #7

becuz the bolts arnt standard, the have a 12pt head on them.

 

TT91

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#8

• Jul 24, 2004

• #8

and you may want to soak the bolts in some lube to assist in loosening them prior to working on it. Those bitches are TIGHT, and the wrench may require a swift kick to break them loose....unless you have a impact gun.

 

D

Daggar

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Jul 19, 2004

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#9

• Jul 24, 2004

• #9

sirsureshot39 said:

and you may want to soak the bolts in some lube to assist in loosening them prior to working on it. Those bitches are TIGHT, and the wrench may require a swift kick to break them loose....unless you have a impact gun.

Click to expand...

They are (or should be) Very tight. What I've done in the past (if you don't have an air gun) is use the 12 pt socket and breaker bar to break torque on those bolts while it was still on the ground (use a long handle). Then you can jack it up and do the replacement and put the bolts back in tight as you can with the E-brake locked. Then put it back on the ground to do your final torque. Keep in mind that you may have to do two bolts at a time then roll the car a bit to get to the other two.

I agree that even if your stock shaft is good... get a new aluminum shaft. You can't go wrong.

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

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Charlotte, NC

Jul 24, 2004

#10

• Jul 24, 2004

• #10

It's possible they didn't mark and replace your driveshaft in the same location on the rear flange. I'd loosen it back there, rotate it 180 degrees and bolt it back in. See if that doesn't cure it.

 

Look Its Aaron

Your car looks like it came straight from Mexico.

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Jul 24, 2004

#11

• Jul 24, 2004

• #11

It is a 12pt 12mm.

 

drgn5.0

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Jul 24, 2004

#12

• Jul 24, 2004

• #12

contact me if you want to pick up a second steel driveshaft instead, i got one and i can probably get ahold of another or two.

aluminum went up to 250-260 but you can get a strange chromoly shaft for like 199.99

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Jul 24, 2004

#13

• Jul 24, 2004

• #13

if not mentioned, use thread locker on the four 12 mm, 12 point bolts. they often back out if not locked.

good luck.

 

FrdMustangCpe

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May 27, 2004

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Sin City, NV

Jul 24, 2004

#14

• Jul 24, 2004

• #14

Michael Yount said:

It's possible they didn't mark and replace your driveshaft in the same location on the rear flange. I'd loosen it back there, rotate it 180 degrees and bolt it back in. See if that doesn't cure it.

Click to expand...

ill try that before i buy anything. because before the tranny swap it didnt do it. also, should i try and see if the shop will do that? i really dont want my car to go into the shop, but if that doesnt cure it, i dont want them to say i messed with something.

thanx

 

FrdMustangCpe

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Jul 24, 2004

#15

• Jul 24, 2004

• #15

....sure wish i had a air compressor too....how much would a small good one run? +basic impact sockets, air rachet, etc?

 

bmo37

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Jul 25, 2004

#16

• Jul 25, 2004

• #16

your going to need a 12pt 12mm 3/8 socket, than at sears buy these things called socket caps 3 pack, tan using the socket cap and a box wrench start on the bottom one, your going to have to put the car in gear and set e-brake. In order to break it loose you'll need to actually kick the wrench with your foot otherwise your not breaking those bolts loose laying on your back under a car. there around 100ftlbs and have loctite from the factory on them.

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

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Charlotte, NC

Jul 25, 2004

#17

• Jul 25, 2004

• #17

Guys - in the initial post, he said he just got the T-5 changed which means the driveshaft was just out of it. I don't think he'll have as much trouble taking it back out as he might have if it was the first time it was coming out.

 

T

TheDevil

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Monkey paw

Jul 25, 2004

#18

• Jul 25, 2004

• #18

If you can afford it get the aluminum driveshaft, you'll be glad you did! If you do have trouble getting the bolts out, just put the rear of the car on stands or ramps, make sure its in gear with the e brake on and use the jack to break the bolts lose, just position the jack against the wrench and jack it slowly holding the wrench against the jack so it doesnt slip out of place and they will break lose effortlessly, let the jack do all the work. You'll have to stop after the first 2 and rotate the driveshaft to get to the other 2 bolts, its really easy.

 

FrdMustangCpe

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May 27, 2004

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Sin City, NV

Jul 25, 2004

#19

• Jul 25, 2004

• #19

well i took the bolts out, rotated it 180 and i still have the same problem. so.......should i take it to the shop and see if they will fix it (no charge) or should i get a aluminum shaft. and finally it is the shaft right? it wouldnt be the rear end???

thanx

 

FrdMustangCpe

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May 27, 2004

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Sin City, NV

Jul 25, 2004

#20

• Jul 25, 2004

• #20

i forgot to add that while i was down there i saw my shaft was painted and had two small what looked like weights up twords the tranny looked like they were held in by something like a nail (i know its not a nail but its similar lookin)