Dropping the T5 - Pull the bellhousing with the tranny or separate?

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Aug 26, 2004
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Foothill Ranch, CA
I've read peeps going both ways, but not a lot of pros & cons of either. The only con I've read towards keeping the bellhousing attached is that it's a PITA to get the top bolts without extensions and swivel sockets.

Are there any cons with unbolting the manual tranny from the bellhousing first, then unbolting the bellhousing from the block? It means more bolts to undo, but that's not really a big deal. I've heard of indexing the bellhousing before, but that sounds like a very advanced option that I really don't need to worry about.
 
I've read peeps going both ways, but not a lot of pros & cons of either. The only con I've read towards keeping the bellhousing attached is that it's a PITA to get the top bolts without extensions and swivel sockets.

Are there any cons with unbolting the manual tranny from the bellhousing first, then unbolting the bellhousing from the block? It means more bolts to undo, but that's not really a big deal. I've heard of indexing the bellhousing before, but that sounds like a very advanced option that I really don't need to worry about.

I took it out w bell attached.

lossen the tranny to bell before removing from car,they can be a pita.

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I took it out w bell attached.

lossen the tranny to bell before removing from car,they can be a pita.

Posted via Mobile Device

on second thought,i would remove the tranny first,then the bell.

just seems easier.

dont forget some antiseize on the tranny to bell bolts.
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Are you doing this on jack stands, or a lift? If on a lift do you have a tranny jack?

If you are doing it on jack stands I would automatically say separate and remove that way. Even with the transmission removed it took a good foot of extensions and a swivel to get the top bellhousing bolts out with some tricky maneuvering, but I have fat hands :D

You'll probably add 5 minutes to the job by separating the two, but make the time back up in getting the bell off.
 
I do them seperate myself. Less mass to deal with coming off the jack and easier to balance. And there's no question about which way to reinstall it, SEPERATELY! Getting the input shaft into the pilot bearing is a PITA when you try and stab the trans with the bell attached.

And you don't have to worry about indexing the bellhousing when you use the stock aluminum piece.
 
I do them seperate myself. Less mass to deal with coming off the jack and easier to balance. And there's no question about which way to reinstall it, SEPERATELY! Getting the input shaft into the pilot bearing is a PITA when you try and stab the trans with the bell attached.

And you don't have to worry about indexing the bellhousing when you use the stock aluminum piece.

Interesting. This is the stock aluminum input shaft? Or the stock bellhousing? 'Cause I've got a steel input shaft on the way in case I need it.
 
Interesting. This is the stock aluminum input shaft? Or the stock bellhousing? 'Cause I've got a steel input shaft on the way in case I need it.


I always seperate them and I have never indexed the stock bellhousing only aftermarket ones. And when you reinstall they would have to be seperate to index the bellhousing.

I think what he was saying is when you go to put it back in, it is much easier to Not have bellhousing attached to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

This is the very tip of the input shaft that goes into the pilot bearing thats in the end crankshaft, which you should be replacing when you have everything out. You will need a puller to get the bearing out and be sure to get the right grease for the new one.

It has nothing to do with the steel shaft you got which is what the throwout bearing slides back and fourth on.
 
Matt,
"The_Mustang" means the stock bellhousing is aluminum, and that you do not have to index it. When you buy an aftermarket bell you should check runout, as they are notoriously off. This is more critical when you install a TKO trans, as they allow less runout than the T5.

As far as removal, either way to get it down is fine, but I've gotten them out attached, then not had the car up high enough to slide it out with the bell on.

As far as assembly, I prefer to bolt on the bell first, then screw in some long (3-4") bolts with the heads cut off for guides, and slide the trans on. This helps as mentioned above to line up the clutch and get it in the pilot bearing.
Stan
 
As far as removal, either way to get it down is fine, but I've gotten them out attached, then not had the car up high enough to slide it out with the bell on.

As far as assembly, I prefer to bolt on the bell first, then screw in some long (3-4") bolts with the heads cut off for guides, and slide the trans on. This helps as mentioned above to line up the clutch and get it in the pilot bearing.
Stan

i always pull the tranny first then the bell. just seems so much easier to get in there to work on the top bolts.

this is what i do also when putting it back together. makes it tons easier to line up.
 
Matt,
"The_Mustang" means the stock bellhousing is aluminum, and that you do not have to index it. When you buy an aftermarket bell you should check runout, as they are notoriously off. This is more critical when you install a TKO trans, as they allow less runout than the T5.

That's what I thought, but I wanted to check first. I do not have access to a lift, just jackstands. I'm gonna remove the tranny from the bellhousing this time.

Thanks for all your input, guys!
 
It's a million times easier to pull the transmission off seperately from the bellhousing, I don't see why anyone would choose to do them together. Stock bellhousings don't have to be indexed. You only do that with aftermarket bellhousings. The stock bellhousing is cast aluminum, so if it goes out of round, it will just crack.

Kurt
 
I do mine seperate, but if I had access to a lift and a tall jack I would do them all at the same time. Bench pressing transmissions sucks bad enough without the bell to deal with.

Adam

I had to chuckle when i read this, ive done my fair share of tranny pressin'

Ive only ever pulled the tranny seperate from the bell housing, its only four bolts. Just make sure you support the bottom of the engine before you start un bolting, or else it will put all the weight of the motor right onto the input shaft, ask me how i know
 
I got a decent transmission jack off ebay for $80 shipped. I always bench pressed the transmission for the Mustang, but I had to have a transmission jack for the truck. It's a good tool to have, and makes the job a lot easier.

Kurt
 
I pull the trans from the bellhousing.

Although the last few times i have had my tranny out, i was pulling the motor. In that case i did the same thing. pulled trans and pulled engine with bellhousing still attached.